Winged victory

By Jan Newberry, Photographs by Sara Remington

It’s true what they say: Everything does taste better with bacon. Consider the oyster. I think of myself as a purist: Make mine icy cold and freshly shucked, and hold the lemon and Tabasco, please. Yes, that mignon­ette is delicious, but don’t let anything get between me and my oyster—except for maybe a slice of bacon. A dish called Angels on Horseback brings these two perfect foods together on the menu at the spanking-new Anchor & Hope, where executive chef Sarah Schafer says she was inspired to revive the classic recipe “purely by my love for bacon.” She uses Blue Points—fatty and not too salty, so they don’t compete with the Niman Ranch bacon wrapped around their bellies—and further embellishes the dish with shaved arugula, lemon vin­aigrette, and a spicy rémoulade. The mollusks are deep-fried until the bacon is crisp and the edges of the oysters begin to curl—like angels’ wings, or so the story goes. I can’t vouch for that, but they taste like heaven to me.
Anchor & Hope: 83 Minna St., S.F., 415-501-9100




Executive chef Sarah Schafer brings the beauty of bacon to Anchor & Hope.