Why Reno?

"Because,” answers one resident wise to the Nevada city’s scruffier charms, “there are times in life when you just have to pour a couple of cheap mai tais in you and take in a country-western nudie show.” But my, how things have changed. If mai tais aren’t your thing, there’s good pinot grigio at the new Siena Hotel’s wine bar, Enoteca. And with a thrilling new kayak park and an outstanding art museum, a trip to the town on the Truckee River can be decidedly non-casino-centric. Of course, Reno’s still filled with the dings of slot machines, but construction crews are busy turning many of the old casinos into $500,000 condos, and boutiques, galleries, and restaurants are springing up in these newly minted neighborhoods. That means Reno now has plenty of classy offerings to lure less-ratty packs, too.

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The three-year-old Nevada Museum of Art, designed by starchitect Will Bruder, wowed the New York Times as well as museum patrons, who all seemed surprised by its grace. The museum’s crenelated deck offers stupendous views of the Sierras. The small collection specializes in works of Western art and photography, and the institution also hosts traveling exhibitions. (A selection of paintings by James McNeill Whistler opens October 13.) Don’t miss sculptor Dennis Oppenheim’s two enormous, cleaving engagement rings, a wry homage to Reno’s divorce trade, which gave the city a boost during the Great Depression. Hit the museum for the jazz brunch held the third Sunday of the month in the atrium. 160 W. Liberty St., 775-329-3333, www.nevadaart.org.

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Bypass the ubiquitous prime rib buffets for Reno’s relatively unknown culinary tradition: all-you-can-eat sushi. Yes, we know it’s landlocked, but for $16 to $25 a head, you can stuff yourself on raw fish at some half-dozen restaurants. Some places require you to sit at the sushi bar to partake, but all pride themselves on their tasty and colorfully named rolls, like the Joey Ramone—with avocado and spicy tuna—found at Sushi Pier, a two-restaurant chain. (Locals swear #2 is the best.) And at the Atlantis Casino’s Sushi Bar on the Sky Terrace, you can nibble fresh nigiri and dragon rolls served on plates littered with orchid blossoms and butterflies carved from carrots. Sushi Pier #2, 300A E. Plumb Lane, 775-825-5225; Sushi Bar on the Sky Terrace, 3800 S. Virginia St., 800-723-6500.

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One of the cornerstones in Reno’s reinvention is the kayak course in downtown’s white-water park. Two years ago, the city redeveloped Wingfield Island, which sits in the middle of the coursing Truckee River, and gave the town its very own kayak run. Depending on the river’s height, the course boasts Class 2 and 3 rapids and 11 drop pools. Inner tubers are also welcome to try their luck. At night the island’s amphitheater hosts outdoor concerts and, on the third Saturday of each month, a wine walk, where strolling guests can sample from various merchants. For kayaking lessons and hourly rentals, contact Tahoe Whitewater Tours, 400 Island Ave., 775-787-5000; Whitewater Park, First St.

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Come nighttime, take a break from the usual diversions of floor shows, blackjack, and jouncing silicone, and try something truly decadent. Chocolate Bar, run by local style setters Tom Jones and wife Emily Reid, is a lounge serving all things cocoa. It may sound like a sugary conceit, but the place works—evenings, the bar fills with a lively crowd of hip huggers sampling Mayan hot chocolate and freshly made, chili-infused truffles. And unlike the casinos, Tom and Emily’s place strictly forbids smoking. If you lack a sweet tooth, you can order a decent glass of cab to max out on flavonoids. Hell, you can even get a scotch. 475 S. Arlington Ave., 775-337-1122.

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Just south of the Truckee River are the Arts and Culture District and South Virginia Street, overlapping, evolving neighborhoods featuring new boutiques and other diversions. A must-stop is Shoe, a funky foot outfitter run by a retired school principal. Around a bit longer but still fresh is the Stremmel Gallery. This minimalist-sleek structure houses a large exhibition space where Peter and Turkey Stremmel indulge their fierce devotion to contemporary art. Shoe, 104 California Ave., 775-324-4616; Stremmel Gallery, 1400 S. Virginia St., 775-786-0558.