When Michael Tusk serves his first meal at Quince’s new location on October 1, he intends to be firing on all burners. They won’t be any old burners, though—Tusk will be cooking on a cobalt blue Bonnet island suite. “One night after service, I found it on eBay. I couldn’t believe it,” says Tusk. The Stradivarius of stoves (Thomas Keller cooks on one at the French Laundry), Bonnets are a fetish item among chefs. The one Tusk found had been salvaged from the kitchen in L.A.’s fabled (now closed) L’Orangerie and was sitting in a warehouse in Orange County. The chef got on a plane and made an offer—and a few weeks later, he was renting a crane to get the three-ton beauty into his new kitchen. “A stove like this was meant to be cooked on,” says Tusk. “I intend for it to be here for a very long time.” 470 Pacific Ave., S.F., 415-775-8500