If you believe a navy blue blazer is a classic, or—admit it—you’re still wearing a double-breasted suit from the Gordon Gekko era, it’s time for your makeover. And David Becker will happily oblige. The gentleman’s fashionista has been dressing stylish men in the Bay Area and beyond since the early ’80s, when his Versace boutique attracted a roster of rockers, including Eric Clapton, Elton John, Phil Collins, and Rod Stewart. The 1987 opening of Diagonale, one of the first U.S. stores that sold Dolce & Gabbana, sewed up Becker’s reputation as a purveyor of new talent. Now he continues the tradition at the Archive, the three-year-old Union Square shop where he serves as arbiter-in-chief. Becker is easily one of the best-dressed guys in town, but his willingness to share is even more appealing. He freely offers customers his seasoned advice (even via email), so they can look as dapper as he does.

Before a man even steps foot into a store to buy a suit, what should he ask himself? What is his budget and what is his style? If he has $1,000 to spend, he’s wasting his time going into Wilkes Bashford. A hand-tailored suit starts at around $1,300 and goes up to $6,000 or $7,000, depending on the fabric and the amount of handwork. Anything below $1,300 means a lot of the construction is done with fusing and glue, and it won’t have hand-tailoring unless it’s on sale. Check the sale rack at the Archive in July and January. Otherwise, try Macy’s.

What are the details that can help you tell a suit is handmade? About 90 percent of the hand-tailoring is in the collar and lapels. You should be able to see the hand stitches—hundreds or even thousands—that produce a soft roll in the collar and lapels. Less expensive suits with fused lapels are ironed to a crease.

What is a classic style that will last? There is no such thing. “Classic” is a moving target. If you see a guy wearing a suit that combines a loosely cut three-button jacket and pleated, full, high-waisted trousers that he bought in 1998, it looks dated, despite the fact that it looked “classic” when he bought it.

But you’re wearing a three-button jacket! Yes, but it’s shorter in length and more fitted. What also makes it modern are the rectangular suede elbow patches—in this case, they’re unusually large.

What is the