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Estado: Hidalgo
Especialidad: As celebrated as Texas beef barbecue and Carolina-style pulled pork is stateside, barbacoa de borrego is one of the iconic dishes of the central Mexican state of Hidalgo. There, lamb is wrapped in the leaves of the maguey plant, a type of agave. It’s then cooked for hours in a pit. At Taqueria Los Coyotes, a metal pot stands in for the underground oven. But the result would do a Hidalguense proud. The leg meat is tender and suffused with flavor, and its accompanying broth, filled with rice and chickpeas, is clear and full-bodied. Plus, the tortillas are made to order. This section of the Mission may turn on super burritos, but who needs those when there’s lamb barbecue on the menu?
$8.50, 3036 16th St., S.F., 415-861-3708
Get your buns across the bridge. While you're at it, get your fried chicken there, too.
As if you don't already have enough on your proverbial plate, here are three more Mexican dishes to track down in the Bay Area.
5/8/08—Extra Extra! Scott Hocker delivers another batch of authentic Mexican dishes. Round 2: barbacoa de borrego.
5/1/08—Extra! Scott Hocker delivers another batch of authentic Mexican dishes. Round 1: tacos de chicharrón.