Sonomans take great pride in their small-town quirks and close-knit community, which differentiate “Slow­noma” from the evil wine empire to the east. In fact,
the farmers and ex-hippie baby boomers who live here have gone a long way over the years to keep their quaint, historic town—it has one of the most beautiful, chain-free town squares in Northern California—from turning into “wine Disneyland,” which is how they view Napa. However, Sonoma is lately experiencing its own little version of capitalism on the march, and the locals are divided about it.

The town has been a stop on the tasting-room circuit for a while now, but as Sonoma’s small-production varietals gain real traction—even sparking international interest—the county’s Tourism Bureau and Vintners Association have started marketing Sonoma as a luxe destination. They’re playing up the new resort hotels—such as the minimalist El Dorado Hotel on the plaza—fine wine country cuisine, and spas with grape-seed-oil treatments (which cost upward of $200). Some locals think their long-held fear will finally be realized and
the Sonoma they know and love will disappear. Indeed, tourist traffic is already increasing. Others are convinced they’ll be able to continue to hold the line and preserve Sonoma’s unique charm. Until it all shakes out, sooner rather than later is the smart traveler’s creed.

SHOP FRONTS
The Wine Exchange of Sonoma  pairs impressive selections of local and inter‑
national wines with beers, making it a
regular hangout for winemakers who’ve overdosed on grapes. 452 First St. E.

The owner of the Cheesemaker’s Daughter, Ditty Vella, is indeed the daughter of local cheese legend Ignacio Vella, of Vella Cheese, and her lineage shows in the shop’s ever-changing lineup of top-shelf cheeses.
127 E. Napa St.

Specializing in handmade tchotchkes,
jewelry made by third-world artisans, and
ecofriendly curiosities such as elephant-dung paper, Baksheesh is like Cost Plus with a soul. Its owners promote fair trade and environmentally sound practices.
423 First St. W.

Sonoma Girlie Stuff is Forever 21 gone small town. Here, unicolored thermals hang next to shiny wraparound skirts, and knockoff sunglasses sit next to stacks of designer jeans. 124 W. Napa St.

ONLY HERE
The Swiss Hotel, one of the oldest locally owned establishments on the square, is also home to one of Sonoma’s best-kept secrets, the Glariffee. This creamy Irish coffee–like concoction knocks you out and then picks you up—or the other way around. Helen Dunlap, the 93-year-old landlady, has been making it for 40 years and is the only living soul who knows the recipe. Not to worry about what happens when Helen
is no longer with us: the recipe is in her will. 18 W. Spain St.

THE GRUB
The family-owned Harvest Moon Cafe feels like a trip to the European countryside; it’s small and cozy with a lovely outside dining enclave and simple but deli­cious food, such as the housemade pork and pistachio terrine. 487 First St. W.

El Dorado Kitchen boasts a creative cocktail menu and haute California cuisine

Patrons at Cafe LaHaye sniff, swirl, and sip hard-to-come-by vino, paired with dishes like house-smoked trout with crispy potato pancakes and pear-ginger compote, while checking out the rotating art displays. 140 E. Napa St.

At the Portuguese restaurant La Salette, start with assorted charcuterie and cheeses, like linguica and queijo fresco.

Then enjoy a steaming copper bowl full of the restaurant’s signature cataplana de marisco,
a delicious seafood and white bean stew. 452H First St. E.

ON THIS SPOT
Sonoma city council members spent the summer of 2000 removing and then returning the free-roaming chicken population on Sonoma Plaza. The “chicken saga” began with several rooster attacks and ended when the town sided with the birds. People lined up
in front of city hall with signs reading “Save the chickens” and “They belong here too!”

HANGOUTS
On Tuesday nights, locals and tourists head from the farmer’s market to Murphy’s Irish Pub to mingle “with their buckets of flowers and bags of squash, to visit and have a pint,” as Sonoma’s former mayor and Murphy’s co-owner Larry Murphy puts it. 464 First St. E.

With a notable duck burger, the best espresso around, and an outdoor patio shielded by fragrant climbing flowers, the Sunflower Café offers a lot more than Starbucks, which has yet to invade the square. 421 First St. W.

Boozehounds go to Steiner’s, entering through the original (circa 1927) green saloon doors. After the bar’s recent remodel, twentysomethings joined the geezers who’ve been regulars here for decades. 465 First St. W.

WHAT IT COSTS
To rent: $1,250 for a two-bedroom duplex at 745 First Street West.

To buy: $968,000 for a four-bedroom, 2.5-bath house at 1068 Fryer Creek.

THE TALK
The unpopularity of the plaza’s recent duck pond renovation soared after the Sonoma Valley Sun leaked the price: $70,000. The sum has been on the tip of many tongues, especially given the closing of Sonoma Valley High’s swimming pool due to lack of funds last year. Locals worry that the tourism agenda is outweighing the best interests of Sonoma, and for many the proof is in the pond.