October 2009

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Sonoma Valley Escape

A region offering fine wine, great food, and relaxing retreats is in your own backyard

By Mary Jo Bowling, Photographs by Cherie Jhaveri

Sonoma Valley brings the authentic casual, culinary wine country lifestyle to San Francisco’s doorstep. Sonoma County is California’s original wine country (the industry was born here in 1824). wine tastingToday, nearly 1,800 Sonoma County grape growers tend fields using traditional farming methods and the latest technology to create grapes expressing the character of the land. Sonoma Valley is celebrated for its small, family-owned wineries and farms; elegant hotels and spas; and an array of outdoor adventures. What’s more, the valley’s location on the southwestern edge of Sonoma County puts all this bounty just 40 minutes away from the city of San Francisco, making it the most accessible wine region from the Bay Area.

foodWhether you are seeking a day trip or a week-long vacation, we’ve got plans for you. Mix and match these ideas for sipping, supping, and chilling to create your personal Sonoma Valley escape.

Wine Tasting
Most Sonoma Valley wineries are owned and operated by families, and visitors are made to feel like part of the clan. Spend a few hours in the tasting rooms, and you’ll likely meet the winemakers and owners, be invited to sit down for a picnic, or get out in the fields.

Gloria Ferrer Caves and VineyardsIn an history-filled wine region, Gloria Ferrer Caves and Vineyards is certainly a historic winery. The Ferrer family from the Penedès region of Spain­­—and with a wine tradition going back to the 13th century—was the first to build a sparkling house in the Sonoma Carneros region. Today, in keeping with the family’s hospitable Spanish roots, Gloria Ferrer wines are poured on the expansive vista terrace overlooking most of their 385 acres of estate vineyards. Visitors can taste at the bar, but most opt for the tables outside, where they can choose between 16 wines (seven of them sparkling) and enjoy cheeses and Spanish delicacies. Don’t miss out on their wine education seminars on Thursdays, where private tours are followed by sit down seminars ranging from wine tasting fundamentals to sparkling wine and food pairing. Guided public tours are available three times daily, as well.

In 1904 Louis Kunde, who immigrated from Germany, purchased a plot of land that was already cycling in Sonomagrowing grapes known as Wildwood Vineyards, now known as the Kunde Estate. Today, this family is still growing grapes on the same land using sustainable farming practices at Kunde Family Estate—and they are eager to show visitors what they do and bring them up close and personal with the grapes. Jeff Kunde leads visitors through the fields on a series of eco-tours; including dog-friendly hikes (where humans taste wine and the dogs try flavored waters) and Sip and Cycle tours (where people pedal around the scenic ranch on mountain bikes, stopping for a tasting among the vines). If you prefer your wine without a workout, check out the winery’s Kinneybrook Room, located off the tasting room. Here, guests sit around a rustic table to sample Kunde’s reserve wines paired with gourmet bites.

Nicholson RanchAt Nicholson Ranch, Ramona Nicholson and her husband Deepak Gulrajani use a gravity-flow system to gently handcraft wines. In the tasting room, visitors can sample the results, and then take a picnic out by the nearby lake. The couple has created what they call the “perfect picnic box,” containing cured meats, cheeses, pate, and olives. On the weekend, guests can augment the meal with fresh-baked bread right out of the winery’s ovens. Ramona was born and raised on the ranch and Deepak is from India, and they’ve combined their heritages to create wines that pair with everything from barbecue to curry-infused dishes. It follows that their annual winemaker dinner is called “A Night in Old Bombay,” and features an Indian food cook off between Deepak and the winery’s caterers.

Viansa Winery and Marketplace is focused on the pairing of food and wine. Inside the tasting room, food and winevisitors find Italian and California-style wines; a market filled with primarily locally crafted foods and cheeses; and an educational commitment to give people ideas for easy dishes and appetizers and wines to serve with them (some of the recipes and ideas come from the mother of Viansa’s president, Lloyd Davis). With the purchase of two bottles of wine, guests are invited to take their own lunch outside, where they can picnic on the recently refreshed grounds. The hilltop site, located over wetlands the winery’s team is in the midst of restoring, makes for one of the most scenic meals in wine country. Seasonal events focus on wine club members, with activities ranging from grape stomping to harvest parties.

California Wine ToursIf you are looking to discover a variety of wineries in a day’s time, California Wine Tours offers an earth-friendly way to do it with their fleet of vehicles that includes Prius sedans and Lexus hybrid SUVs. The company is the largest private tour company in Northern California, and the first to be certified as a Bay Area Green Business. In addition to their eco-focus, the company is renowned for its knowledgeable guides, who serve as the drivers. Guides undergo extensive training, and each has a “black book” filled with contacts at wineries large and small, enabling them to individually tailor each tour.


Dine and stay

The hotels in Sonoma Valley offer peaceful places to stay in addition to world-class spas and El Doradocritically acclaimed restaurants. Located on the Sonoma square, the El Dorado Hotel and Kitchen offers a perfect, modern place to dine or escape for several days. The restaurants (the Kitchen and Cafe) do more than provide lip service to the idea of fresh and local. The restaurants maintain biodynamic gardens at a nearby winery, and they grow 80 percent of their own food. Chef Justin Everett (recently of Auberge du Soleil and Bouchon) plans his menus according to what’s fresh from the gardens. And, if you are in the know, you can order a feast not found on the menu. When requested, Chef Everett will create a six course, custom menu designed around fresh ingredients and local wines.
[Photograph by Navid Baraty]

Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn and SpaThe first thing visitors notice about the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn and Spa is the grand, Mediterranean-style building. But nature has given this property something no architect could—an ancient thermal mineral spring. The feature provides the Spa with soaking pools and is the basis for many of the signature treatments (including an über relaxing bathing ritual). For visitors who prefer a more active form of relaxation, the Inn is home to a renowned golf course. Guests can also enjoy the fare at the award-winning Santé restaurant, where Chef Andrew Cain is inspired by the local bounty of the region.

The Lodge at Sonoma also has an emphasis on relaxation and renewal. The Raindance Spa focuses on treatments using local ingredients,Scenic Sonoma such as lavender, grape seed, olive oil, and mustard. The Carneros Bistro and Wine Bar has a similar mission, and Chef Janine Falvo directs the growing of the gardens that encircle the Lodge. You’ll also find live music here on the weekends, primarily jazz. Given the name, it’s no surprise that wine is a major focus in this restaurant. The wine menu emphasizes nearby Sonoma Valley vintners, and you’ll find some rare offerings here. Sommelier Chris Sawyer takes his love of wines outside of the kitchen by holding special Grapes to Glass seminars, a popular program that teaches guests more about wine and winemaking.

Want to know more? You can find information on all things Sonoma Valley at the Sonoma Valley Grapes and Wine website, sonomavalleywine.com.

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Comments for Sonoma Valley Escape (1)
  • NorCalPal 9/30/2009 12:55:29 pm
    My son got married in Sonoma and the family stayed at The Lodge. Loved the place and got to meet the sommelier who does fun wine tasting at the hotel.
    We went for coffee practically every morning at EDK kitchenette-a cute space that has great pastries and coffee.
    We did some touring on bikes from Goodtime Bikes, but did want to try out the green fleet from the Cal Wine Tours company.
    One tip we got from the Lodge was to use the Sonoma Vintners Association online calendar to know what was going on at the wineries. We went to some fun things that we would not have known about any other way.
    Great time...and I'm glad the wedding is over now :-P

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