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From projects to prosciutto

A pass-through neighborhood on the north end of the Mission is finally giving people a reason to stop and look around.

By Marcia Gagliardi, Photography by Alex Fradkin

Speaking in gentrification terms, the part of the Mission between Duboce Avenue and 16th Street is a bit of a late bloomer: The wave of hipsterdom that flooded upper Valencia and Guerrero Streets during the last 10 years pretty much stopped at 16th. But now foodies and culturephiles, presumably tired of the Mission hype—and looking for a new sketchy neighborhood to demarginalize—are moving in.

The change kicked off when the Valencia Gardens projects (so crime-ridden, they seemed straight out of The Wire) were razed in 2004 and replaced by a public-housing development of modern flats and townhouses. With the streets suddenly safer, the hood attracted a handful of new businesses, including Mission Beach Cafe, indie clothing shop Miranda Caroligne, and, most recently, super-sleek Conduit, which draws diners from all over the city. Some blocks still feel ignored, but these new spots—along with art-gallery openings and neighborhood anchor Zeitgeist—are keeping the streets abuzz after dark.

The surest indication that the area is on the upswing? Parking has gotten even scarcer—and is likely to get worse when the historic Levi’s factory, which has sat ominously empty on practically a full square block since 2002, becomes home to the San Francisco Friends School, a private K–8, this fall. Bill Clarke, who co-owns and lives above Mission Beach Cafe, echoes the sentiment of many locals: “Kids are a sign that we feel the neighborhood is safe. It makes a statement.”

GRUB
The splashiest new addition to upper Val­encia is Conduit, named after the expan­ses of gleaming pipes in the spacious dining room. Some sniff that the restaurant is a bit high-end for this area, but at least it’s helping put the neighborhood on the map. 280 Valencia St.

At the well-appointed Mission Beach Cafe, locals now have a stylish place to perk up with Blue Bottle Coffee, meet for a meal, or indulge in Alan Carter’s famed morning pastries and desserts. 198 Guerrero St.

Pauline’s Pizza has been a favorite of families and gourmands for years, particularly for its pesto, along with fresh toppings and salads from the restaurant’s own gardens. But in late 2007, Little Star Pizza introduced some competition down the block with its second location, serving beloved thin-crust and deep-dish pies. 260 Valencia St.; 400 Valencia St.

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