December 2008

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The powder players

By Scott Hocker, Portraits by Gregory Goode

Boris Portnoy
Why he matters: Because in his hands, whimsy can be high gastronomy. “I don’t believe in secret recipes or ownership of dishes. I believe in sharing knowledge. Ideas, curiosity, and choices in products define who we are as cooks first, and good taste combined with aesthetics defines us as chefs.”

boris portnoy


Michelle Polzine
Why she matters: Because she’s saving neighborhood-restaurant desserts from their history of mediocrity. “There are only so many neighbors in a neighborhood, and quite a few restaurants in most. So I think we put a lot more effort into what we do to set ourselves apart. I have the best staff in town. Actually, we need to be kicking more ass, considering how good my ladies are.”

michelle polzine


Luis Villavelazquez
Why he matters: Because he uses innovation as a means, not an end. “I like hills and valleys of flavor. So, to prevent a chocolate dessert from being too sweet, it needs salt and acid.”

luis villavelazquez


Nicole Krasinski

Why she matters: Because she proves that savory desserts can be sweet. “Too many restaurant desserts have been following the status quo. Now that people are spending less, it’s even more critical to create something that draws them back.”

nicole krasinski

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Comments for The powder players (1)
  • jackwhitacre 5/4/2009 6:28:34 am
    Beautiful composition with stirring portraits by Grefory Goode.. This story gives the 'powder players' a feeling of iconic artists on the front lines of innovation. I look forward to experiencing these creative creations during my visit this summer.

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