If there’s a part of Oakland that’s ready for wider appreciation, it’s the Grand Lake district, the easygoing hub of nonchain retail and crazy-quilt demographics along the Grand and Lakeshore Avenue strips. Just off Lake Merritt between sedate Trestle Glen and downtown, this affordable neighborhood draws bike-messenger bohemians, immigrants of all colors, middle-aged Piedmont yuppies, and a sizable lesbian community. It feels like some combination of ethnically diverse suburbia and crowded university town.

But as with many things Oakland, the district still eludes the bulk of Bay Area residents, who likely pass by overhead via the 580 freeway until a new landmark or high-rise makes them look twice. That may or may not change as new development creeps in. The lake and surrounding area are slated to get more bike lanes, hiking trails, and shoreline park zones as a result of ballot Measure DD, which voters overwhelmingly approved in 2002. But having watched luxury condo towers rise up on the western side of the lake, many residents fear other signs of the area’s reconfiguring. A Trader Joe’s is set to open on Lakeshore Avenue later this year, which, along with discount liquor and fabulous frozen foods, will no doubt bring unwanted congestion.

Still, when you’re strolling around the lake on a balmy evening, watching joggers lope, pelicans dive, and scullers skim by, it’s hard to worry too much.

THE GRUB
Mezzé’s elegant atmosphere, knowledgeable staff, and braised lamb shank with saffron couscous make for a night of culinary pampering. 3407 Lakeshore Ave.

At no-fuss Rolling Dunes, ordering at the register doesn’t cheat you out of service. Warm bread and water refills still make their way to your table, and the satisfying café chow and affordable wine tempt you not to cook on weeknights. 3331 Lakeshore Ave.

As much a community hangout as a source for great baked goods, the cooperative Arizmendi Oakland is named for the Basque priest who founded one of the world’s largest worker-owned co-ops. The line out the door registers Oakland’s support for democratic workplaces—and good pecan rolls. 3265 Lakeshore Ave.

ONLY HERE
Often called the jewel of Oakland, Lake Merritt was a hunters’ paradise until stray bullets threatened budding neighborhoods in the late 1800s. The feds intervened, bestowing national wildlife refuge status before even Yellowstone and Yosemite were protected—ironic, given that the lake is a man-made feature. Today, rowing, sailing, and romantic gondola rides still lure urbanites onto its salty waters.

Everyone in town knows that Children's Fairyland wasn’t just the nation’s first theme park for children: it also inspired Disneyland. If you’re sans children, make a date with a kindergartner—adults without kids aren’t allowed in. 699 Bellevue Ave.

THE TALK
Money problems and a lawsuit over trees mean that Measure DD, a $198 million bond to improve the

lake’s water quality and wildlife habitat, has barely gotten off the ground. Some parts of the project are being scaled back to accommodate rising construction costs, and Friends of the Lake, which is trying to save the trees, has demanded that a thorough environmental analysis take place before the chain saws rev up.

HANGOUTS
Despite multiplex com­pe­tition, the commercial-free shows and lefty political marquee that make Grand Lake Theatre legendary remain intact. With its 1920s facade, regally plush interior, and Mighty Wurlitzer organ performances, the theater evokes the splendor of old vaudeville haunts. 3200 Grand Ave.

Every Saturday, the lake folk congregate at the Grand Lake Farmers’ Market  to check out the live music, multiethnic snacks, and gorgeous produce. Massage booths for adults and balloon artists for kids are just a couple of other draws. Corner of Grand and Lake park Aves.

SHOPFRONTS
For Michael Mischer, there’s no irony in the location of his candy store, Michael Mischer Chocolates, next to a Weight Watchers. “Instead of buying a cheap, supersized candy bar, people can eat smaller amounts of quality chocolate and be satisfied,” he says. Test the proposition with a passion-fruit-infused caramel. 3352 Grand Ave.

Ladies, leave your credit cards at home: Maribel offers coveted consignment designs in a chic, organized setting. Bring clothes to swap or sell, and split the profits with the store. 3251 Lakeshore Ave.

Open late on Fridays and Saturdays, the ’70s-era bookworm hangout Walden Pond Books is still the area’s best stop for a mind-expanding alternative to an after-dinner drink. 3316 Grand Ave.

WHAT IT COSTS
...to rent: $1,095 for a one-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment at 469 Van Buren Avenue, within walking distance of Grand and Lakeshore Avenues.
...to buy: $359,000 for a one-bedroom, one-bathroom, 491-square-foot condo at 320 Lee Street with a dining room, deck, and view of Lake Merritt and Oakland.