Before the Twin Peaks streetcar tunnel was completed in 1918, the lands west of the hills were barren scrub and sand dunes. But ever since San Franciscans emerged from the tunnel, the neighborhood at its mouth—aptly named West Portal—has been a comfortable place to settle in. Its older population, hodgepodge architecture, and middle-class roots have long excused it from having to keep up with the rest of the cutting-edge city.

But now West Portal is turning over to young families looking for yards, couples who can’t afford to buy in Noe Valley, and techies who like the convenience of nearby 280. The city knows it’s time, too: the local library branch and playground just underwent major renovations. With stroller pushers and upscale boutiques appearing right and left, it’s looking more like Noe every day, and “on any given evening, there’s now a buzz,” says Anna Barbagelata, who runs an eponymous West Portal real estate company. Her brother and co-owner Paul adds, “Houses today sell at lightning speed.”

But the neighborhood hasn’t completely fallen to yoga mats and Bugaboos: blue-collar natives mingle with SF State students and suited-up yuppies, and citizens fight chain stores and the development of their four neighboring urban forests. And, even though it’s just 15 short minutes from downtown, it still manages to feel like a village. The friendly restaurants and shops may draw San Franciscans through the tunnel, but the down-to-earth sense of community and history make them stay.

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THE GRUB
Bring a jacket if you’re stopping by Roti Indian Bistro —this restaurant is so popular there’s bound to be a line outside, and the West Portal fog is fierce. Mouth-watering lamb “popsicles,” creamy curries, and the restaurant’s namesake bread have helped turn West Portal into a destination. 53 WEST PORTAL AVE.

At the forefront of the Peruvian craze, the first (and smallest) of the three Fresca restaurants in San Francisco serves its nouveau Peruvian cuisine in especially large portions with boisterous flair. 24 WEST PORTAL AVE.

Serving traditional dishes like pierogi, kielbasa, and killer sauerkraut, Old Kraków is one of the only Polish restaurants in the city. 385 WEST PORTAL AVE.

SHOPFRONTS
When it opened in 2005, Maximum Mama Maternity proved that a hip small business could thrive in quiet West Portal. With casual, business, and formal wear, it’s a one-stop shop for pregnant mothers. Look for the ab workout classes and pampering days. 33 VICENTE ST.

WineStyles ups the cosmopolitan factor in the neighborhood, while still being buyer-friendly. The shop categorizes wines using adjectives like crisp, rich, and mellow, rather than by varietal. 9 WEST PORTAL AVE.

The wares at Plain Jane’s are anything but. Girls of all ages wander in to catch a whiff of the Archipel-ago candles

and coo over cutesy baby gifts. 44 WEST PORTAL AVE.

HANGOUTS
Every up-and-coming neighborhood has its own wine bar these days, but the owners of Que Syrah tailored theirs for the area, taking the pretentious-ness down a notch with inviting couches and a casual bar. 230 WEST PORTAL AVE.

It’s a testament to West Portal that a coffee shop like The Greenhouse can thrive across the street from Starbucks and Peet’s. The joint won its loyal fans with home-made chai latte, loose-leaf teas, art shows, and cozy couches and a patio in the back. 329 WEST PORTAL AVE.

The banter at the Philosopher’s Club wouldn’t impress Socrates, but after a few Rolling Rocks, who’s to judge? This former dive got cleaned up years ago, but the clientele certainly didn’t. Expect a bar full of regulars, plus the occasional Muni commuter or group of students coming by after classes at SF State. 824 ULLOA ST.

The local landmark now known as CinéArts Empire Theatre opened as the Portal Theatre back in 1925. Since then, its single theater has been split into three, then bought by a national chain. But this small corner venue is still much more appealing than a megachain. 85 WEST PORTAL AVE.

THE TALK
Arden Wood, which runs the stately Christian Science nursing home on the edge of West Portal, has made a deal to sell 4.6 acres of woodland to Republic Urban Properties, which hopes to build two medium-rise buildings and assorted single-family housing. Young pro­fessionals and aging West Portal dwellers have already formed a waiting list, but comm-unity members who treasure their views of the majestic urban forest aren’t on board with the plans for a 13-story building. Ground-breaking is still at least a couple of years away, but residents are already waging battles both for and against the development in the Chronicle’s “Letters to Real Estate” section.

ONLY HERE
When yet another mortgage company tried to move onto West Portal Avenue, residents protested in writing—and won. Instead Neal Sofman, and his wife, Anna Bullard, formerly of A Clean Well-Lighted Place for Books, opened BookShop West Portal last year. Business is up, even though the Waldenbooks across the street was forced to close in July. “We’ve got a sophisticated group of readers,” Neal enthuses. “We’re selling poetry.” 80 WEST PORTAL AVE.

ON THIS SPOT
Shaws ice cream shop opened in 1931 and expanded to 52 locations before going out of business. Today, the original store is one of just three (independently owned) Shaws left, but it continues to tempt passersby with classic candies, Mitchell’s ice cream, and fudge made on the spot. 122 WEST PORTAL AVE.

What it costs
…to rent: $3,800 for a three-bedroom, three-bath, two-story house with parking and a backyard at 2356 FUNSTON AVE.

…to buy: $989,000 for a two-bedroom, one-bath, single-family home with parking and a yard at 166 LENOX WAY.