Santa Cruz may be the star of its coastal county, but where can one turn to avoid its carny touches and sprawl? To the southeast, where Capitola lies. This intimate seaside town has sandy beaches, friendly locals, and historic charm with beautiful Victorians in bubblegum colors. Since 1869, when the beachfront tents of “Camp Capitola” were erected, it’s been a popular place for Central Valleyites to escape the summer heat. San Franciscans, meanwhile, can use the laid-back town as a warmer, more winsome Sausalito. One aspect of the town that’s reminiscent of a big city is the parking: there isn’t any. Even an 80-year-old photo in the Capitola Historical Museum shows the streets packed with Model Ts. So pack the dash with quarters and soak up a weekend of surfing and shopping before high season hits.

1. You’ll want to get up early to stake out your spot on the beach, so kick-start your day with a cup of the Village Buzz Blend at Capitola Coffee Roasters (105 Stockton Ave., 831-476-5422, www.capitolacoffeeroasters.com). Owner Cathy Bentley proudly roasts her own organic, shade-grown, fair-trade beans on the premises. She’s even just installed an oven so she can make pastries from her family recipes. They’d better be good—they’ll be competing with the famous, picnic-worthy goods at Gayle’s Bakery and Rosticceria: fresh fruit tartlets and seasonal cakes, plus pastas, meats, and dips (504 Bay Ave., 831-462-1200, www.gaylesbakery.com). For dinner, visit Shadowbrook restaurant for an experience like no other. An old-fashioned cable car glides guests down to the entrance, which is built into the hill next to Soquel Creek and canopied by a lush forest. You’ll feel like you’re walking into a fairy tale. You may have had molten chocolate cake before, but never in a setting like this (1750 Wharf Rd., 800-975-1511, www.shadowbrook-capitola.com).

2. Capitola Village has all the usual beach town tourist shops: Thomas Kinkade gallery, T-shirt kiosks, dog accessory store. But just up Capitola Avenue, past the railroad trestle and the fire station, Three Little Birds has the kinds of gifts you’ll be happy to bring back—and tempted to keep for yourself—like bird-shaped bottle openers, adorable stationery from lines like Yellow Bird Paper Greetings, and napkins in pretty paisley patterns (409A Capitola Ave., 831-462-2473).

For a dose of culture, check out the Capitola Book Cafe. You just might catch one of the many readings and author signings; photos of Isabel Allende and Frank McCourt, who’ve appeared there, hang on the shelves. It’s also a great source for a beach read, whether a romance novel or an international magazine. Plus, they rent audiobooks for $1 a day, so you can focus on the waves instead of the words (1475 41st Ave., 831-462-4415, www.capitolabookcafe.com).

3. April is one of the best times to catch a wave in Capitola: right before the summer crunch, it has warm weather plus some remaining winter swells. “Hodads”—beginners or poseurs who pretend to know how to surf—would benefit from a lesson

with Capitola Beach Company, offered from Easter until Labor Day (weekends only until June). Just an hour and a half of instruction should be enough to get you standing on your board (private lessons: $80; group: $65; 131 Monterey Ave., 831-462-5222, www.capitolabeachcompany.com). To ease the sore muscles you’ll no doubt have, head to Caress Day Spa, in the historic Carriage House, for a massage and a citrus body scrub under the Vichy shower (911 Capitola Ave., 831-462-4422, www.caressdayspa.com).

4. The town’s quirky history extends to its hotels. The Capitola Venetian Hotel stands out along the shore-line with its bright colors and part-Mediterranean, part–Spanish Revival architecture (1500 Wharf Rd., 831-476-6471, www.capitolavenetian.com). In the former train depot that houses the Inn at Depot Hill, each room is gloriously decorated around a theme, such as sunny Valencia, Spain; a plush Pullman car; or romantic Paris. And many of the rooms feature luxurious amenities such as double-sided fireplaces and deep soaking tubs (250 Monterey Ave., 800-572-2632, www.innatdepothill.com).

5. For a small seaside town, Capitola knows how to have a good time. The locals get down at the Fog Bank, “Capitola’s Funnest Bar & Grill,” with a Pacifico in hand and a groove in the hips. But the coolest new spot for nightlife is Cava, a wine bar opened last summer by Zach Worthington and Cliff Livingston, former bartenders at Zuni Cafe (Worthington won San Francisco’s Best of the Bay Area award in 2004 for best bartender for hire). The list pays tribute to local wineries, with a large variety from the Santa Cruz Mountains, though you’re still covered if you want a French bordeaux, a Paso Robles zin, or a German riesling (115 San Jose Ave., 831-476-2282, www.cavacapitola.com).