Meet Me at Mina

As the social calendar dwindles into summer, the swells pack the one big affair: the much anticipated opening of Michael Mina's new restaurant.

Nelson Mui

Food is religion in this land of milk and honey, and its most artful practitioners reign like gods. So when a local celebrity chef, the one who took the helm from George Morrone at Aqua, makes a debut in a venerable San Francisco institution, the socioculinary complex is all atwitter.

Such was the scene at the opening of Michael Mina's eponymous restaurant, which replaced the age-old Compass Rose at the Westin St. Francis. Everyone from fixtures and world-traveling raconteurs Harry and Margot de Wildt and Willie Brown to chefs Gary Danko and the Ritz Carlton's Sylvain Portay to the young chic set, including Alexis Swanson (looking sexier since she's been seeing the oh-too-tasteful Trevor Traina) and Dorka Keehn, to district attorney Kamala Harris showed up to celebrate—and critique—the latest in the world of chic eats. The take-charge Harris invited the Socialist along for a self-guided tour of the kitchen (clean, efficient, unremarkable).

Perhaps she was looking for Andre Agassi (an investor and friend of Mina's). Or maybe some hors d'oeuvres—difficult to score among the swirl of people who were doing laps around the restaurant while dishing about the decor. Margot de Wildt, for one, remarked that the interiors reminded her of one of the restaurants on the Queen Mary. When asked if she was on the same crossing from Southampton, England, as Ann Moller Caen (Herb's widow had raved about the experience to the Socialist a couple of weeks earlier), she said no. "I was on the Caribbean leg."

Comments about the beige and slate blue interiors, courtesy of Barbara Barry, continued to dominate the conversations, with varied reviews. Some attendees were simply loyal to the old Compass Rose. "It seemed more distinctly San Francisco, with its dark-wood-paneled walls," said one. Still others, who had read about the restaurant in the press, decided, in the acute style consciousness of those living their lives completely designed, to come dressed to match the decor. (Wouldn't want to clash with the furniture!) One such partygoer eyed my outfit (a beige blazer from Wilkes Bashford) and commented approvingly, "See, you've come in the right colors." Uh, right.

The fashion and furnishings connection was an official one the following week at a benefit for the Susan G. Komen foundation for breast cancer research. Organizers asked fashion and interior designers around town to create outfits for a fashion show, which drew the likes of Bella Farrow and Barbara Banke (co-owner of Kendall-Jackson), who actually strutted down the runway. The show featured some models who are either survivors of breast cancer or who have lost a loved one to the disease. Martin Richards, the interior design store and firm, donated outré ensembles, including a silk velvet top with full sleeves paired with a multipleated skirt in a quilted striped fabric. "We like being a little over the top," said co-owner Richard Bohonsky.

But if the older generation might prefer the theater of a fashion affair
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