Mammoth Mountain
A zoom with a view.With enough sunny days per year (300, on average) that you’re pretty much guaranteed a tan before you head home, Mammoth Mountain ranks among the best—and most unknown, at least to us northerners—of the Sierra resorts. Soaring above the Ansel Adams Wilderness in the sawtoothed Eastern Sierra, Mammoth is actually a dormant volcano, high above the tree line. From atop the mountain's sky-punching, 11,053-foot summit, you can see clear across the entire state to the Coast Ranges. The altitude also means consistently drier snow and one of the longest seasons of any California resort (it’s often open till July 4). Alas, the town of Mammoth Lakes is strictly utilitarian—a patchwork of condo complexes, subdivisions, and strip malls—but when the skiing is this good, who cares? The biggest drawback is the six-hour trek from the Bay Area. But take heart: The journey passes through such jaw-droppingly majestic scenery that you'll hardly notice the clock.
Two ways to sleep
The business-class digs and fabulous beds at the new Westin Monache Resort, Mammoth are a welcome departure from the 1970s-era condos ubiquitous in town. Best of all, the new village gondola lies steps away and whisks you straight to the mountain's base area. The vintage 1924 Tamarack Lodge, which doubles as the mountain’s cross-country center, is Mammoth's most picturesque inn, tucked into a sylvan lakeside dell surrounded by towering pines. The best rooms are in freestanding cottages (some lodge rooms share a bath).
Easy, intermediate, and expert runs abound in Mammoth's varied terrain. (Photo by James Crowe)
Scope the slopes
Three miles of wide-open bowls stretch across the mountain's 3,500-acre face. Some are nearly vertical, with gulp-and-go chutes; others are gently sloping, ideal for ballroom-style swooshing. But Mammoth’s signature run is Christmas Bowl, which passes right by a fumarole, an open steam vent that penetrates the earth's surface. Snowboarding is huge at Mammoth, which has three kick-ass terrain parks catering to different skill levels. Tip: When it's storming, take your ticket and head to Mammoth's sister, June Mountain, which is 20 minutes away and better protected from the wind. As for the best individual runs, Lower Road Runner meanders through the woods for a long, easy ride for beginners. For intermediates, Stump Alley gets too crowded, so better to ride the gondola to the top, then loop around the backside via Upper Road Runner to the base. On a powder day, expert skiers should take the Cloud 9 Express, traverse to Dragon's Back, and drop into tree-dense glades. Otherwise, stick to the super-steeps near the top. For flat-land lovers, Tamarack Cross Country Ski Center is the place to be. It looks like a scene from a snow globe, with 19 miles of groomed trails wending through dense pine forests dotted with icy blue lakes. If your legs can make it, head deep into the woods to Lake Mary for a loop around the shoreline. And if you're really strong, ditch the access corridor and continue to Lake George and Horseshoe Lake, where you can vanish into the woods.
Still-in-California cuisine
Everyone agrees that locally owned Petra's Bistro is tops in town, and you'd be hard-pressed to find a better meal this side of San Francisco. In classic California style, the menu draws primarily on Europe for inspiration, with occasional forays into Asian spicing. The wine list ranks among the Eastern Sierra's best, drawing the town's oenophiles and bon vivants to the fireside bar. Don't be disappointed by the strip mall location of Restaurant Skadi. The second-floor dining room's big windows reveal a gorgeous mountain panorama (best viewed before sunset). The Euro-Cal menu is consistently well executed by chef-owner Ian Algerøen, who integrates elements from his native Scandinavia into standouts like foie gras with glogg-poached pears, and roast duck with lingonberries. The fur-clad Los Angeles crowd flocks to Restaurant LuLu, sister of the long-running San Francisco staple. The formula is the same—big platters of rotisserie meats, roasted mussels, and provincial French–inspired dishes designed to share—and it works great with a big party of wine-swilling friends.
The fresh alternative
If you love the mountains but don’t like to ski, try Auberge’s newest resort, which opens this month: Encantado, located seven miles outside of Santa Fe. The 65 stuccoed casitas all offer views of the Rio Grande and the Jemez Mountains, and in winter, the spicy piñon wood–burning fireplaces and snow set the scene for enjoying the lodge, the spa, and restaurant Terra. Bustling Santa Fe, with its world-famous Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, is a stone’s throw away.
Resources
Petra’s Bistro: 760-934-3500, petrasbistro.com
Restaurant LuLu: 760-924-8781, restaurantlulu.com
Restaurant Skadi: 760-934-3902, restaurantskadi.com
Tamarack Lodge: 760-934-2442 or 800-626-6684, tamaracklodge.com
Westin Monache Resort, Mammoth: 760-934-0400 or 888-627-8154, westinmammoth.com
Encantado: 505-946-5700 or 877-262-4666, encantadoresort.com
Main photo: Eddying winds deliver fresh powder to the face of Mammoth Mountain.
Two ways to sleep
The business-class digs and fabulous beds at the new Westin Monache Resort, Mammoth are a welcome departure from the 1970s-era condos ubiquitous in town. Best of all, the new village gondola lies steps away and whisks you straight to the mountain's base area. The vintage 1924 Tamarack Lodge, which doubles as the mountain’s cross-country center, is Mammoth's most picturesque inn, tucked into a sylvan lakeside dell surrounded by towering pines. The best rooms are in freestanding cottages (some lodge rooms share a bath).
Easy, intermediate, and expert runs abound in Mammoth's varied terrain. (Photo by James Crowe)
Scope the slopes
Three miles of wide-open bowls stretch across the mountain's 3,500-acre face. Some are nearly vertical, with gulp-and-go chutes; others are gently sloping, ideal for ballroom-style swooshing. But Mammoth’s signature run is Christmas Bowl, which passes right by a fumarole, an open steam vent that penetrates the earth's surface. Snowboarding is huge at Mammoth, which has three kick-ass terrain parks catering to different skill levels. Tip: When it's storming, take your ticket and head to Mammoth's sister, June Mountain, which is 20 minutes away and better protected from the wind. As for the best individual runs, Lower Road Runner meanders through the woods for a long, easy ride for beginners. For intermediates, Stump Alley gets too crowded, so better to ride the gondola to the top, then loop around the backside via Upper Road Runner to the base. On a powder day, expert skiers should take the Cloud 9 Express, traverse to Dragon's Back, and drop into tree-dense glades. Otherwise, stick to the super-steeps near the top. For flat-land lovers, Tamarack Cross Country Ski Center is the place to be. It looks like a scene from a snow globe, with 19 miles of groomed trails wending through dense pine forests dotted with icy blue lakes. If your legs can make it, head deep into the woods to Lake Mary for a loop around the shoreline. And if you're really strong, ditch the access corridor and continue to Lake George and Horseshoe Lake, where you can vanish into the woods.
Still-in-California cuisine
Everyone agrees that locally owned Petra's Bistro is tops in town, and you'd be hard-pressed to find a better meal this side of San Francisco. In classic California style, the menu draws primarily on Europe for inspiration, with occasional forays into Asian spicing. The wine list ranks among the Eastern Sierra's best, drawing the town's oenophiles and bon vivants to the fireside bar. Don't be disappointed by the strip mall location of Restaurant Skadi. The second-floor dining room's big windows reveal a gorgeous mountain panorama (best viewed before sunset). The Euro-Cal menu is consistently well executed by chef-owner Ian Algerøen, who integrates elements from his native Scandinavia into standouts like foie gras with glogg-poached pears, and roast duck with lingonberries. The fur-clad Los Angeles crowd flocks to Restaurant LuLu, sister of the long-running San Francisco staple. The formula is the same—big platters of rotisserie meats, roasted mussels, and provincial French–inspired dishes designed to share—and it works great with a big party of wine-swilling friends.
The fresh alternative
If you love the mountains but don’t like to ski, try Auberge’s newest resort, which opens this month: Encantado, located seven miles outside of Santa Fe. The 65 stuccoed casitas all offer views of the Rio Grande and the Jemez Mountains, and in winter, the spicy piñon wood–burning fireplaces and snow set the scene for enjoying the lodge, the spa, and restaurant Terra. Bustling Santa Fe, with its world-famous Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, is a stone’s throw away.
Resources
Petra’s Bistro: 760-934-3500, petrasbistro.com
Restaurant LuLu: 760-924-8781, restaurantlulu.com
Restaurant Skadi: 760-934-3902, restaurantskadi.com
Tamarack Lodge: 760-934-2442 or 800-626-6684, tamaracklodge.com
Westin Monache Resort, Mammoth: 760-934-0400 or 888-627-8154, westinmammoth.com
Encantado: 505-946-5700 or 877-262-4666, encantadoresort.com
Main photo: Eddying winds deliver fresh powder to the face of Mammoth Mountain.
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