Lessons in layering

Radha Weaver

With her roots in Berkeley, where her charming studio once housed her grand‑
father’s laundry business, designer Erica Tanov seems uniquely qualified to tackle the region’s classic seasonal dilemma: how to wear summer’s lightweight fashions without freezing in the evening fog. Her ethereal dresses and tunics, wide-legged linen pants, and vibrant florals and prints are perfect for the beaches of Baja, but by simply layering the pieces, a Bay Area girl can keep warm at night. This is not to say Tanov is a one-coast wonder: trendy New Yorkers snap up ultrafeminine frocks at her Nolita boutique. This month, Tanov tells us about the season’s must-have pieces and explains that there’s more art to layering than just piling it on. Erica Tanov, 2408 Fillmore St., S.F., 415-674-1228; 1827 Fourth St., Berkeley, 510-849-3331, www.ericatanov.com

Any trends we should follow this season?
Long Bermuda shorts are everywhere. I don’t usually follow trends, but I designed a pair in this bold umbrella stripe that’s very wearable.

What can’t you live without in your summer wardrobe?
It has to be linen. I used to design lingerie, and I really think about the feel of fabrics—what’s touching your skin is as important as what people see. When linen is new I just love the cool, crisp feel, and then as it wrinkles it’s just so soft.

Any tips to combat that wrinkle factor?
I don’t even try to keep it pressed because I’m not that kind of gal. The more wrinkled linen gets, the better. In fact, one year I designed a waxed linen coat, and before we shipped it we’d scrunch it up in a ball so it would get more creased.

Linen’s great for our few hot days, but what about cool summer nights?
Layering! You can still wear the sleeveless tops and soft summer dresses but add a little cashmere cardigan in a bright color. I love deep fuschia-violet—it’s a warm tone but bright and happy. Or a citrine green that’s really electric. And you can always wear dresses over jeans. It will give you some warmth, but you still have the feeling and look of summer.

Won’t all those layers make me look bulky?
Keep them lightweight, from the tank to the blouse and cardigan. If you want to wear a jacket, keep it small and cropped with three-quarter sleeves. One of my favorite pieces for summer is a folklore cotton shrunken jacket. It’s the perfect layering piece and you can still wear it in the fall just by adding long gloves and a cashmere scarf. 

What’s the easiest way to change a look for evening?
I often don’t have time to change before I go out since I have kids, so I design my pieces to be worn day or night. I might not have time to primp, but I always put on some lipstick, change my hair, and add a dressier necklace and shoes. You can get away with being really casual in the Bay Area, and I think it’s beautiful that people can be who they want to be, but it’s better to be overdressed than underdressed when you go out.