Korean food, the latest cuisine to be discovered by a new generation of American cooks, is having its moment. And kimchi—the unabashed darling of that moment—is the “it” ingredient that’s being paired with everything from hot dogs to tacos. But on Oakland’s Telegraph Avenue, fermented cabbage is a way of life, not a trend, and the pungent pickled vegetable is ubiquitous at every meal. At Casserole House, owner Suk Lee offers several varieties of Korea’s favorite treat—turnip, cucumber, bok choy, and the classic cabbage (pictured). The kimchi here is notably balanced: not too salty or too spicy, but with a definite kick and just enough of the signature funk that makes it an acquired but oddly addictive taste. A one-gallon container will run you $10 and keep in the refrigerator for approximately forever. You might want to take a cue from the Koreans, who often reserve a separate room for storing kimchi—but no matter where you stash it, its fragrance will permeate your home. 4301 Telegraph Ave., Oakland, 510-601-6001