“We don’t care if the rest of the world doesn’t know we exist,” says Excelsior resident Jean Feilmoser. Like most people in the neighborhood, Feilmoser has spent her life here and has no plans to leave. Wedged between Highways 280 and 101 south of where they cross, and stuck with a shady reputation (that the locals feel is undeserved), this is a place where gentrifying soles have yet to tread, and outsiders generally don’t bother to visit.

But they should, if they want a taste of mom-and-pop San Francisco. Originally an agricultural center of the city, the Excelsior takes pride in its blue-collar roots and has no desire to become Mission Nouveau. Its percentage of homeowners is among the highest in San Fran­cisco, and houses can still be had for $100,000 less than in Bernal Heights and Glen Park. Settled by Italian immi­grants, the neighborhood now caters to its residents with Vietnamese sandwich shops and Latin American produce markets. A pint still costs $2.50 at Pissed Off Pete’s, and “Joe Grinds His Own Fresh Chuck Daily” at Joe’s Cable Car Restaurant.

Across the Excelsior, John McLaren Park—San Francisco’s second largest (after Golden Gate)—boasts panoramic bay views, blazes of poppies, the nine-hole Glen­eagles Golf Course, and an amphitheater named for the district’s most famous former resident, Jerry Garcia. Without the crowds of other city parks, McLaren mirrors the feeling of the neighborhood below—traditional, quiet, and always unpretentious.

HANGOUTS
The younger crowd hangs out at modern Mamá Art Cafe, where rotating local art installations and a floor-to-ceiling mural grace the walls. During the day, freelancers on MacBooks take advantage of the sandwiches and free Wi-Fi; at night, DJs spin or singer/songwriters show their stuff. 4754 Mission St.

Don’t let the name fool you—Pissed Off Pete’s is more bark than bite. The cheap beer, uneven pool table, and dollar fortune machine are the trappings of a gnarly dive, but the bar has become a local hangout where everyone knows your name. 4528 Mission St.

GRUB
When they come across the half-lit sign and crumbling exterior, it’s not unusual for newbies to double-check the address of Granada Cafe. But sink into one of the vinyl booths, and you’ll feel right at home. The famous Manhattans warm your belly, and hearty entrées like chicken parmesan—which comes with

soup or salad, salami, pasta, and ice cream for just $12—warm your soul. 4753 Mission St.

For 43 years, Joe’s Cable Car Restaurant has been dishing out messy, freshly ground chuck-and-rib-eye burgers with almost as many choices of toppings as there are cheesy decorations in the place. Luckily, they know meat better than interior design. 4320 Mission St.

Ignore the handful of negative Yelp reviews: Pho Hoa Hop isn’t fancy, but this Vietnamese restaurant serves up steaming bowls of pho as slurp-worthy as they come. The tai nam version, served with paper-thin noodles and all the fixings, hits the spot on the Excelsior’s many windy evenings. 880 Geneva Ave.

THE TALK
Parents were outraged when they learned in March that, in the wake of Proposition 39, Excel­sior Middle School will have to pack up and move in with a high school in Potrero Hill to make way for a charter school this fall; and, at the same time, Denman Middle School will be forced to open its doors to Leadership High, another charter. The parents are fuming not only because they were left out of the decision, but also because they feel the legislation has been enforced only in the city’s working-class areas.

ONLY HERE
In a nod to their neighborhood’s ranching roots, spectators can watch each April as cattle stampede down four blocks of Geneva Avenue on their way to the Grand National Rodeo at the Cow Palace. Locals climb to the rooftops, business owners close up shop, and camera crews swarm to take in the sight.

OPEN SPACES
John McLaren Park is nothing less than an overlooked gem. Stretching across a hill, it features open trails for dogs, bikes, and hand-in-hand wandering. And every summer, the Jerry Garcia Amp­hi­theater swarms with tie-dye on the park’s annual Jerry Day (August 3 this year).

Until a few years ago, Cayuga Park wasn’t a safe place to visit at night. But local gardener Demetrio “Deme” Braceros transformed it into an oasis of cherry blossoms, sage, hydrangea, and daisies, surrounded by a jungle of painted animal sculptures. The playground and baseball diamond are now alive with kids’ chatter, and couples stroll the shaded paths. Naglee Ave at Cayuga Ave.

Artist and well-known neighborhood activist Bonnie Ora Sherk and her crew ripped up the concrete surrounding the San Miguel Child Development Center and tapped Islais Creek below to create A Living Library

& Think Park. The lush gardens are open to the public and host native flowers and plants maintained by the students and other volunteers. 300 Seneca Ave.

WHAT IT COSTS
…to rent: $2,550 for a three-bedroom, two-bathroom flat in a brand-new building at 1080 Geneva Ave.
…to buy: $669,000 for a Victorian two-bedroom-plus home, with a remodeled kitchen and landscaped gardens, at 541 Lisbon St.