Geyserville
Where podunk melds with picturesque.Good riddance, high season. Come fall, Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley is awash in green, the temperature has dropped from torrid to perfect, and the out-of-towners have headed for the hills. Six miles north of agro-posh Healdsburg, right off Highway 101, sits Geyserville, an unpretentious hamlet replete with noteworthy wineries, great nearby hiking and biking, and a bucolic charm all its own. In the 1800s, big-city folk would trek to sleepy Geyserville for the town’s namesake natural springs to the southeast. Although Harbin and hot springs in Calistoga have replaced Geyserville as thermal destinations, the town’s gentle allure hasn’t changed. It’s also evident in three easygoing local lodgings: the Victorian bed-and-breakfasts Hope-Merrill and Hope-Bosworth Houses and the simple, comparatively modern Geyserville Inn. All in all, this welcoming little town feels like the ultimate insider secret.
One-stop wine tasting
None of the 10 wineries featured at Locals have their own tasting room, so owner Carolyn Lewis took it upon herself to create one for all of them. At her downtown wine bar, aficionados pick a category, such as “pinot noir” or “other whites and rosé,” and taste their way through up to eight selections—for free. It’s a superb way to sample wines that are nearly impossible to find elsewhere.
Will drive for wine
Two years ago, Francis Ford Coppola purchased Château Souverain, three miles south of town, and transformed it into Rosso & Bianco winery. Its logo, with a treble clef standing in for the ampersand, arches over the entrance. A trail of wine bottle decals on the pavement guides drivers to the tasting room, where two-ounce wine samples are paired with such nibbles as bresaola and parmigiano reggiano.
Santi's house-cured salumi.
Culinary double bill
At Santi, a sprawling space with a bar, two dining rooms, and an enormous fireplace, chef Dino Bugica serves Italian food so primal, it could make Alice Waters feel like a molecular gastronomist. Typical antipasti include vinegar-tinged sardines on crostini and panzarotti (here, hot pockets stuffed with pork); pastas and main courses change seasonally and might include Monterey Bay squid or a Duroc pork chop with guanciale and English peas. At Diavola, right next door, the focus is on housemade salumi and pizzas cooked in the wood-fired oven. Don’t confuse rustic with unrefined, though—every dish at both of these restaurants is prepared with exquisite care.
The fresh alternative
Another mellow getaway within driving distance is the Cottages at Little River, just two miles south of Mendocino. The town has only 400 residents, so guests come just to relax, enjoy the ocean views, and take leisurely hikes in the nearby redwoods. Opened last summer, the property features candy-colored cottages, all with fully equipped, top-of-the-line kitchens. (Some even allow pets.) Thanks to the cottages’ convenient grocery-delivery service, you can enjoy a great gourmet weekend on the cheap.
Resources
Diavola: 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com
Hope-Merrill and Hope-Bosworth Houses: 707-857-3356 or 800-825-4233, hope-inns.com
Locals: 707-857-4900, tastelocalwines.com
Rosso & Bianco Winery: 707-857-1400 or 877-767-7624, rossobianco.com
Santi: 707-857-1790, tavernasanti.com
Jimtown Store: 707-433-1212, jimtown.com. To get to Lake Sonoma and its trailheads from Jimtown Store, head southwest for 2.3 miles on Alexander Valley Rd./Hwy. 128 and turn right onto Lytton Station Rd. After 1.4 miles, turn right onto Lytton Springs Rd. After 2.7 miles, turn right onto Dry Creek Rd. and continue 7.5 miles to the visitor center.
Cottages at Little River Cove: 707-937-5339, cottagesatlittlerivercove.com
Main photo: Grab a sandwich for your hike at the iconic Jimtown Store, located several miles outside of town.
One-stop wine tasting
None of the 10 wineries featured at Locals have their own tasting room, so owner Carolyn Lewis took it upon herself to create one for all of them. At her downtown wine bar, aficionados pick a category, such as “pinot noir” or “other whites and rosé,” and taste their way through up to eight selections—for free. It’s a superb way to sample wines that are nearly impossible to find elsewhere.
Will drive for wine
Two years ago, Francis Ford Coppola purchased Château Souverain, three miles south of town, and transformed it into Rosso & Bianco winery. Its logo, with a treble clef standing in for the ampersand, arches over the entrance. A trail of wine bottle decals on the pavement guides drivers to the tasting room, where two-ounce wine samples are paired with such nibbles as bresaola and parmigiano reggiano.
Santi's house-cured salumi.
Culinary double bill
At Santi, a sprawling space with a bar, two dining rooms, and an enormous fireplace, chef Dino Bugica serves Italian food so primal, it could make Alice Waters feel like a molecular gastronomist. Typical antipasti include vinegar-tinged sardines on crostini and panzarotti (here, hot pockets stuffed with pork); pastas and main courses change seasonally and might include Monterey Bay squid or a Duroc pork chop with guanciale and English peas. At Diavola, right next door, the focus is on housemade salumi and pizzas cooked in the wood-fired oven. Don’t confuse rustic with unrefined, though—every dish at both of these restaurants is prepared with exquisite care.
The fresh alternative
Another mellow getaway within driving distance is the Cottages at Little River, just two miles south of Mendocino. The town has only 400 residents, so guests come just to relax, enjoy the ocean views, and take leisurely hikes in the nearby redwoods. Opened last summer, the property features candy-colored cottages, all with fully equipped, top-of-the-line kitchens. (Some even allow pets.) Thanks to the cottages’ convenient grocery-delivery service, you can enjoy a great gourmet weekend on the cheap.
Resources
Diavola: 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com
Hope-Merrill and Hope-Bosworth Houses: 707-857-3356 or 800-825-4233, hope-inns.com
Locals: 707-857-4900, tastelocalwines.com
Rosso & Bianco Winery: 707-857-1400 or 877-767-7624, rossobianco.com
Santi: 707-857-1790, tavernasanti.com
Jimtown Store: 707-433-1212, jimtown.com. To get to Lake Sonoma and its trailheads from Jimtown Store, head southwest for 2.3 miles on Alexander Valley Rd./Hwy. 128 and turn right onto Lytton Station Rd. After 1.4 miles, turn right onto Lytton Springs Rd. After 2.7 miles, turn right onto Dry Creek Rd. and continue 7.5 miles to the visitor center.
Cottages at Little River Cove: 707-937-5339, cottagesatlittlerivercove.com
Main photo: Grab a sandwich for your hike at the iconic Jimtown Store, located several miles outside of town.
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