An epic cure

No spring chicken, North Berkeley's gourmet ghetto gets a Botox shot of youth and glamour.

Leigh Ferrara

north berkeley

The birthplace of Alice Waters’s culinary revolution has long been synonymous with California cuisine. It’s where chefs like Chez Panisse’s Jean-Pierre Moullé and César’s Olivier Said not only cook but live, hang out, and shop. And it’s where organics are a no-brainer and celebs dine when in town. But despite being a culinary landmark, it used to be a virtual ghost town after 9 p.m., drawing more seniors and strollers than scenesters.

However, things are on the upswing. A flight of late-night wine-tasting events has turned it into a destination for revelers. The opening of Epicurious Garden, a gourmet marketplace that resembles a mini version of the Ferry Building, with a Kirala sushi take-out spot and a cooking school, has upped the gourmand quotient of the neighborhood and drawn in the crowds. Chutharat Sae-Tong, who helped start the nighttime events at the Cheeseboard Collective, explains that as a Cal student, “I never used to come to the ghetto­—there weren’t any young people here. Now there’s life.”

Some worry the newbies are missing the local angle: Epicurious’s food is gourmet, but it’s not all organic, and many local vendors can’t afford the rent. “They need to be in tune with what we’ve been doing for years,” comments Moullé. “But, we also can’t live in the past.” He does assure us Waters is still queen bee: “If the new vendors go astray, Alice will set them straight.”

GET WINED
The daily pizzas at Cheeseboard have a cult-like following, but it's the new wine-and-cheese nights that are causing a buzz among Cal grad students and loyal regulars. Check the website for the next event. 1504 Shattuck Ave.

From time to time, Vingtage Berkeley owner Peter Eastlake closes his doors and opens 15 bottles of wine for tastings that last until late. They're invite only, but there are no pretenses—anyone can sign up for an invitation at the store. 2113 Vine St.

With the touch of a button, drinkers at Epicurious's new wine bar, Taste, can sample any of the 50-plus wines, including a $300 bottle of Château d'Yquem. "It's like an upscale vending machine," says owner Deepak Aggarwal. 1513 Shattuck Ave.

GET DINED
Owner Gregoire Jacquet lives up the street from his organic take-out spot, Gregoire, so he's usually around—unless he's tasting bread in France for his new eatery, Socca Oven, in Epicurious Garden. 2109 Cedar St.

Petrossian, the world-renowned Parisian caviar company, has debuted its first Dom Petroff boutique here. 1513 Shattuck Ave.

Now that the Imperial Tea Court is in Epicurious Garden, Alice Waters no longer has to trek to the city for her fix. 1513 Shattuck Ave.

Diners sound like self-help gurus when reading the menu at Café Gratitude, which serves raw

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