February 2008

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Dishes on the downlow

Being a regular at a restaurant is like being in a good relationship: The staff tend to know what you like (and how you like it), and there are usually a few shared secrets.

Marcia Gagliardi

Bix
Secret dish Items on the extensive sec­ret menu include crab Louie, a mixed-veggie plate (usually seven or eight kinds), Creekstone New York steak, and crème brûlée. There are others, too, but those are secret secret.
Back story
Executive chef and co-owner Bruce Hill masterminded the secret menu about four years ago, since he found it “fit the personality and aura of the business. And it’s great for regulars seeking classic choices.”
56 Gold St., 415-433-6300

Gary Danko

Secret dish Gary Danko is famous for foie gras, so savvy insiders order it as a main—a double portion arrives. On the lighter side of the scale, vegetarians can have tofu “scallops.”
Back story
Danko’s menu is designed to be flexible and put diners in the driver’s seat.
800 North Point St., 415-749-2060

Falstaff

Secret dish Ready for that burger? Whatever is being braised today is stuffed into a beef patty, then shoved into a bun. A fried egg is placed on top, and blue cheese is served on the side to go with the fries.
Back story Executive chef Jonnatan Leiva reports, “Guys don’t order ‘the burger.’ They ask for that burger. We’ve had girlfriends come in the next day, asking the kitchen to not serve their boyfriends too many each week, because it’s so bad for them.”
598 2nd St., 415-836-9239

Swan Oyster Depot

Secret dish Customers prone to hangovers order the “red eye,” a combination of oyster juice, cocktail sauce, housemade horseradish, Tabasco, and beer.
Back story The red eye has been on the menu since the 1960s, before the restaurant even had beer on tap. Co-owner Tommy Sancimino remembers customers ordering it when he was just a kid.
1517 Polk St., 415-673-1101

A16

Secret dish Calamari pizza (available only when calamari is on the menu).
Back story It started one night when the kitchen was playing around, making a pizza for a server or a dishwasher. Executive chef Nate Appleman says it wasn’t a big seller, so it was taken off the menu. But regulars know to be on the lookout for squid.
2355 Chestnut St., 415-771-2216

Poleng Lounge

Secret dish Grilled beef tongue or yakitori—grilled and deep-fried chicken skin served with calamansi, a traditional Filipino citrus.
Back story Executive chef Tim Luym says, “We can change it up depending on what our vendors have, and nothing goes to waste, because the kitchen staff eats whatever doesn’t sell. It’s a menu geared for industry people, regulars, fellow Filipinos, and anyone daring.”
1751 Fulton St., 415-441-1751

Rubicon

Secret dish Short ribs.
Back story Executive chef Stuart Brioza never has short ribs on the dining room menu, but they’re always on hand for banquets.
558 Sacramento St., 415-434-4100

Kokkari Estiatorio

Secret dish Berkshire Pig head (when available).
Back story Since executive chef Erik Cosselmon started buying whole pigs, regulars now call in advance to reserve the specialty. One night, an opera singer ordered the whole head, causing whiplash in the dining room as it was brought to his table.
200 Jackson St., 415-981-0983

Campton Place

Secret dish A seven-course dessert tasting menu (you must call ahead, and you can also order it in the Campton Place Bar).
Back story Pastry chef Boris Portnoy wanted to be able to wow friends and fellow industry folks.
340 Stockton St., 415-955-5555

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