February 2008
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Bix
Secret dish Items on the extensive secret menu include crab Louie, a mixed-veggie plate (usually seven or eight kinds), Creekstone New York steak, and crème brûlée. There are others, too, but those are secret secret.
Back story Executive chef and co-owner Bruce Hill masterminded the secret menu about four years ago, since he found it “fit the personality and aura of the business. And it’s great for regulars seeking classic choices.”
56 Gold St., 415-433-6300
Gary Danko
Secret dish Gary Danko is famous for foie gras, so savvy insiders order it as a main—a double portion arrives. On the lighter side of the scale, vegetarians can have tofu “scallops.”
Back story Danko’s menu is designed to be flexible and put diners in the driver’s seat.
800 North Point St., 415-749-2060
Falstaff
Secret dish Ready for that burger? Whatever is being braised today is stuffed into a beef patty, then shoved into a bun. A fried egg is placed on top, and blue cheese is served on the side to go with the fries.
Back story Executive chef Jonnatan Leiva reports, “Guys don’t order ‘the burger.’ They ask for that burger. We’ve had girlfriends come in the next day, asking the kitchen to not serve their boyfriends too many each week, because it’s so bad for them.”
598 2nd St., 415-836-9239
Swan Oyster Depot
Secret dish Customers prone to hangovers order the “red eye,” a combination of oyster juice, cocktail sauce, housemade horseradish, Tabasco, and beer.
Back story The red eye has been on the menu since the 1960s, before the restaurant even had beer on tap. Co-owner Tommy Sancimino remembers customers ordering it when he was just a kid.
1517 Polk St., 415-673-1101
A16
Secret dish Calamari pizza (available only when calamari is on the menu).
Back story It started one night when the kitchen was playing around, making a pizza for a server or a dishwasher. Executive chef Nate Appleman says it wasn’t a big seller, so it was taken off the menu. But regulars know to be on the lookout for squid.
2355 Chestnut St., 415-771-2216
Poleng Lounge
Secret dish Grilled beef tongue or yakitori—grilled and deep-fried chicken skin served with calamansi, a traditional Filipino citrus.
Back story Executive chef Tim Luym says, “We can change it up depending on what our vendors have, and nothing goes to waste, because the kitchen staff eats whatever doesn’t sell. It’s a menu geared for industry people, regulars, fellow Filipinos, and anyone daring.”
1751 Fulton St., 415-441-1751
Rubicon
Secret dish Short ribs.
Back story Executive chef Stuart Brioza never has short ribs on the dining room menu, but they’re always on hand for banquets.
558 Sacramento St., 415-434-4100
Kokkari Estiatorio
Secret dish Berkshire Pig head (when available).
Back story Since executive chef Erik Cosselmon started buying
Get your buns across the bridge. While you're at it, get your fried chicken there, too.
As if you don't already have enough on your proverbial plate, here are three more Mexican dishes to track down in the Bay Area.
5/8/08—Extra Extra! Scott Hocker delivers another batch of authentic Mexican dishes. Round 2: barbacoa de borrego.
5/1/08—Extra! Scott Hocker delivers another batch of authentic Mexican dishes. Round 1: tacos de chicharrón.