Who needs a New England fall when we’ve got Sonoma County at harvest time? A leisurely autumn jaunt along Highway 12, where the leaves flaunt their last blaze of glory and fruit-heavy vineyards fan out to the foot of the mountains, is one of the prettiest drives imaginable. As you approach the forested town of Glen Ellen, a thicket of winery signs pointing every which way makes the region’s predilections clear. But this is tasting as it was meant to be, with easygoing proprietors who have time to chat and never pour on the guilt when you don’t buy a case. And while this bucolic valley just a 15-minute drive north of the Sonoma Plaza is still the mellow side of wine country, tiny, laid-back Glen Ellen has its own world-class, 23-room hotel. Prepare to sleep in, lounge a lot, amble down a country road to order seafood risotto and Meyer lemon cheesecake, and chill out in style.

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The Gaige House has always been long on charm. With a
dramatic redesign highlighting African and Asian art and its New York–style spit-and-shine service, it’s now a destination sure to please even the most jaded jetsetter. Try to score one of the newer suites (below), set away from the Queen Anne Italianate main house. They were designed by Zen monk and architect Paul Discoe (who did Oracle CEO Larry Ellison’s pad) and interior designer Paul Davis: built around indoor atriums, these wonderfully restful creekside rooms feature 2,500-pound granite soaking tubs that had to be forklifted in through the ceiling. Order up a massage in your room or under a canopy in the garden to help erase workweek stress. A glass of wine by the pool completes your decompression regimen.
13540 Arnold Dr., 707-935-0237.

 

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The next day, wine-tasting is de rigueur, but to arrive at the vineyards at a respectable hour, take a detour to Jack London Park first. Leave your iPod at the hotel—you’ll want to be able to listen for any rattlesnakes that are out and about. First, stroll through madrones and redwoods to the ruins of West Oakland native London’s Wolf House mansion (above), which burned down just before he and his wife, Charmian, were set to move in. While wandering inside the stone walls, you can almost imagine the playroom for the kids, the pool stocked with trout, and the original Spanish tile roof. If you’d like more exercise, you can double back, switch parking lots, and take forest and meadow trails past a five-acre lake (created by the Londons) to approach the summit of Sonoma Mountain. The round-trip jaunt is nearly seven miles—pick up a map at the ranger’s station. 2400 London Ranch Rd., 707-938-5216.

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If you prefer swinging a club to hiking, the Oakmont Golf Club is about eight miles from Gaige House and offers two fine 18-hole courses: a championship par 72 and a challenging par 63. Set in the Valley of the Moon, Oakmont’s well-kept greens come with eminently reasonable day fees: for the West Course, $32(walking) to

$47 (cart) on weekdays, $50–65 on weekends. Don’t be alarmed by the Santa Rosa address: this is no urban course. You’ll drive past vineyards to get to the pastoral setting, where picturesque views of Mount Hood and the Mayacama Mountains could make it hard to keep your eye on the ball. 7025 Oakmont Dr., Santa Rosa, 707-539-0415.

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To put together a picnic before heading to the park or the greens, stop by Jack London Village. You’ll find artisanal cheeses at Raymond & Co. Cheesemongers, where the proprietor insists on knowing the milk source of his wares from St. Helena, Healdsburg, and beyond. At dinnertime, pick up a flashlight at the front desk of Gaige House and stroll the short distance to the Fig Café, younger sister to downtown Sonoma’s The Girl and the Fig. The café’s brilliant no-corkage-fee policy means that locals and visitors alike flock here to enjoy a convivial evening dining on duck confit and steamed mussels, without a punishing wine tariff. raymond & co. cheesemongers: 14301 Arnold Dr.,707-938-9911. Fig Café: 13690 Arnold Dr., 707-938-2130.

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When you’re ready for tasting, you’ll find plenty of choices right around Glen Ellen. Benziger, near Jack London Park, goes a step beyond organic, since its bio­dynamic wine will never sully your lips with residue from past pesticides. To explore the gorgeous countryside outside town, take a drive to Matanzas Creek Winery (above), surrounded by over 4,000 lavender plants. Matanzas’ French winemaker’s offerings include the risky “rosé wine of merlot,” a blend of merlot and syrah that prac­tically vibrates with color. Or try some Italian varietals at VJB Vineyard’s small, informal, family-run tasting room. VJB sells its barbera, tocai friulano, and more to only a few restaurants and its wine club. benziger: 1883 London Ranch Rd., 888-490-2739. Matanzas creek winery: 6097 Bennett Valley Rd., Santa Rosa, 800-590-6464. VJB: 9077 Hwy. 12, Kenwood, 707-833-2300.