Blazing Saddles

It was boom times again, as Hermès threw the party of the year—with create-your-own goody bags—recalling the lavish openings of the late '90s.

Nelson Mui

You could have been forgiven for forgetting, if only for a moment, that we live in sobering economic times (record unemployment rates seem to spawn flaccid parties—and libidos) at the extravaganza Hermès orchestrated for its opening.

Was it seeing Maiden Lane transformed into an open-air Provençal market (complete with wooden floorboards) teeming with fresh fruit, flowers, fish, cheese, and olive oils, free for the taking? Perhaps it was being among friends jampacked in a village square ambience? Or maybe it was simply the festive mood—helped by a running faucet of wine and a string quartet—that transported us away from the sullenness of San Francisco of late.

Whatever the explanation, it was universally agreed that Hermès—estimated to have spent $300,000 on the bash—threw the party of the year. Two days later, at an AmFAR party at Bulgari that gathered the city's social elite, people were still commenting on it.

"We need more of these kitschy, villagey parties," said Kim Karp, who'd soaked up the fun on Maiden Lane.

In that fantasy alley-cum-market, young and old, stodgy and hip mingled like a town square celebration. Everyone from the social establishment, including Ann Getty, Dede Wilsey, John Traina, Denise Hale, and Susie Tompkins Buell and the next-generation socials Vanessa and Billy Getty, Trevor Traina, and Dorka Keehn, slung free straw shopping baskets over their arms and milled about. Such was the density of the throng that you couldn't budge one stiletto-heeled or loafered foot before running into another acquaintance who embroiled you in conversation.

"Being six and a half months pregnant, I had planned on an early night, but I just kept running into friends," Vanessa Getty told the Socialist.

Others had more material complaints. In the big rush to fill the goody bags with loot, the rich and the superrich queuing up resembled a scene from Communist-era Russia. Except the rationing was for the much-coveted Diptyque candles, which vanished minutes after the woman charged with distributing them appeared. No one can resist getting something for free, especially those most able to afford the finer things in life, a fact Hermès understood all too well. As a New York socialite once reminded the Socialist, "Anybody can pay retail." (Full disclosure: The Socialist, standing conveniently next to the Diptyque woman when she arrived, managed to score a candle.)

"I saw a woman with three of them in her bag," one socialite, who had clearly lost out, groused. (The greedy wench!)

Another partygoer, eyeing my Diptyque, jokingly threatened all kinds of mayhem to relieve me of my candle.

Topics of conversation that dominated the party: yea or nay to a certain publicist's new bangs? (Consensus: yea, despite a few detractors.) Stanlee Gatti, the event planner who

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