The best of the rest
By Scott Hocker
Marylou Jaso, Bar Tartine
Style: Creatively seasonal. Maple flan with fried-to-order black-walnut churros; Meyer lemon–and-caramel trifle; pear-chestnut tart with candied-ginger ice cream. 561 Valencia St., S.F., 415-487-1600
Ethan Howard, Murray Circle
Style: Homey with an advanced degree. Carrot cake with date ice cream; malted waffles with roast bananas and coconut sorbet; blackout cake. 601 Murray Cir., Fort Baker, Sausalito, 415-339-4750
Chucky Dugo, The Slanted Door
Style: Inspired Asian. Spiced kabocha squash with mint cream and pomegranate seeds; juniper-poached pear with hazelnut streusel and grapefruit ice cream; tapioca in coconut water with persimmon. Ferry Building Marketplace (Market St. at Embarcadero), S.F., 415-861-8032
William Werner, Vs.
Style: Meticulous composed desserts in unexpected flavors, delivered courtesy of Vs., Werner’s roving dessert-and-art installation. Apple confit with brown-butter consommé and cinnamon-lemon ice cream; chocolate risotto with goat cheese and banana. His modern patisserie is slated to open in San Francisco next spring. politepersuasion.com
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