S u m m e r

Dolphin Bay,
Pismo Beach

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Days spent staring at the tide pools, front-row seats for the sunset- Pismo's new Luxury hotel makes summer beach life even breezier.

Shaw McPherson knows a few things about signature properties. The former manager of our own beloved Zuni Cafe has turned his talent to making the Dolphin Bay Hotel & Residences a place guests rarely venture away from. In the evening, they gather on their balconies overlooking the Pacific, sipping wine and smiling at each other. In the morning, over indulgent breakfast parfaits and brioche French toast, they commiserate about having to check out.

Perhaps the affection springs from the right-at-home feeling, as the “rooms” are really 960-square-foot (at least!) apartments equipped with an ocean view, a Wolf range, a Sub-Zero refrigerator, and every amenity you could think of (by prior arrangement the staff will even stock your kitchen with groceries). And with so many people content just to hang out on their balconies, there’s plenty of room in the hot tub and the tropically warm saline pool.

Preparing a gourmet dinner in the suite’s kitchen is a cozy option, but don’t skip over the resort’s restaurant, Lido. Chef Evan Treadwell prepares note-perfect dishes of mostly locally sourced ingredients, and the wine list is concise and intelligently chosen. Now, float back to your room and have sweet dreams.

The morning light will draw you down to the beach. The coastline is filled with tide pools, with no driving necessary—a short path from the resort leads you to stairs. Below, sea stars and anemones await.

Hours of such intense, exhausting focus must naturally be followed by a treatment or four at the spa, aptly named La Bonne Vie. What to choose…a seasonal facial? (In summer, it’s done with citrus and honey.) A 75-minute pedicure, complete with aromatherapy foot soak, half-leg exfoliation, and moisturizing mask?

A massage in one of the beautiful treatment rooms? Dolphin Bay feels like home—well, maybe just a little better. —Jennifer Wolfe

Dolphin Bay Hotel & Residences, 2727 Shell Beach Rd., Pismo Beach, 805-773-4300, www.thedolphinbay
.com; one-bedroom rates: $405–$1,200. ◊

Whistler,
british columbia

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The first thing people think of when they think of Whistler is snow, but the first thing you actually notice about the place is the dramatic mountain range that embraces it. Dark, craggy, and thickly forested, it promises hair-raising mountain biking and other adventures best enjoyed during its “off-season.”

Shake off your preconceptions of what a mountain hotel should be, and check into the decidedly un-log-cabiny, boutique Adara Hotel. With loft rooms in beiges and grays splashed with bright red accents, velour carpet, fake fur throws, and docking stations for iPods, it’s guaranteed to charm any latter-day mod. Pets are welcome—just don’t let them chew on the Panton chairs.

What you might not expect to find in Whistler is fine dining, but you’ll get that, too. At Bearfoot Bistro, famed for its sabering (beheading champagne bottles with a saber) and what Wine Spectator called one of the most outstanding wine lists in the world, you might start with salmon three ways—smoked, cured, and tartare with trout roe—before you move on to fragile cauliflower flan and Arctic caribou sous vide, as tender as a slice of melon. Even breakfast is a cut above typical resort fare in this town: crab benedict, smoked duck sausage, and potato tartlet with chive crème fraîche at Elements Urban Tapas Parlour get your appetite going even after a blowout dinner.

It would be crazy to go to Whistler and not spend a lot of time outdoors, but if sports aren’t your thing, you can ride the gondola up, up, up to take in the mind-bending view of both Whistler and Blackcomb mountains. You may well spot some bears en route—whiteboards at the gondola stops announce the bear sightings of the day. From the Roundhouse Lodge, you can hop the open chairlift to the glaciers, but if you enjoy walking, hikes of every exertion level begin at the lodge as well.

For the ultra-adventurous, ziplining through old-growth forest with Ziptrek Ecotours is like flying, but with a bit of a wedgie. Thoroughly professional, safety-conscious guides hook you into a harness that they attach to a thick steel cable—and off you go, zooming over the treetops and rushing rivers at up to 60 miles per hour. (A guide at the other end puts on the brakes.) One of the lines is the longest and fastest in North America, but all will get your heart pumping and your Tarzan yell going. —Peggy Nauts

Adara Hotel, 4122 Village Green, Whistler, B.C., 604-905-4009, www.adarahotel.com; rates: $149–$869. Bearfoot Bistro, 4121 Village Green, 604-932-3433, www.bearfootbistro.com. Elements Urban Tapas
Parlour, 4359 Main St., 604-935-4067, www.wildwood restaurants.ca. Ziptrek Ecotours, 866-935-0001, www.ziptrek.com. Perimeter shuttle from Vancouver airport (2.5 hours), 877-317-7788, www.perimeterbus.com. ◊

Rockwater Secret Cove Resort,
Halfmoon bay, b.c.

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When the prospect of summertime crowds along Highway 1 keeps you from hitting that road, journey north—way north—to a familiar-sounding spot along a very different Pacific coast, and find yourself some glorious solitude.

While the Gulf Islands get all the press, British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast, a 55-mile stretch north of Vancouver, has all the wooded, watery beauty of those islands but sees fewer visitors. It’s accessible only by ferry ride from the Horseshoe Bay dock—45 minutes north of Vancouver—or by floatplane from Victoria or Vancouver, arriving in the town of Sechelt. Changes are afoot, though, as evidenced by a lot of construction and For Sale signs, so enjoy the quiet of a summer getaway here while you still can.

Halfmoon Bay’s newly renovated Rockwater Secret Cove Resort is actually a 48-year-old enclave formerly known as Lord Jim’s Resort Hotel. The multimillion-dollar restoration of the property included the addition of 13 luxury tents, which are worth booking well in advance. Designed as a way to expand the property without destroying the terrain, the tents are perched over the rocks and reached by a dramatic elevated wooden walkway through the forest. Each has a deck overlooking the Malaspina Strait—a day spent gazing out at the water feels far from wasted. Tent interiors are tricked out with heated slate floors, giant showerheads, and light-therapy spa tubs—hey, Canadians are forward-thinkers.

The nearest town of any size is a 20-minute drive, but guests are happy to be a captive audience for Rockwater chef Steven Ewing, who makes spectacular use of Canada’s many edible resources. An Okanagan Valley wine makes a perfect partner to a meal here. The sweetest end to the day is having dessert on your deck while watching the last light disappear—at 10.30 p.m.

Should you eventually peel yourself off the deck, you’ll find outdoor activities aplenty. The resort has an outpost of the rental company Halfmoon Sea Kayaks. Take off from the beach to explore the surrounding coves and paddle the calm, clear waters. You can fish for salmon year-round, and nearby Malaspina Ranch offers horseback rides. And be sure to book a massage in the Spa Without Walls—a tent perched on a bluff above the cove. It could very well be the pinnacle of your northland experience. —J.W.

Rockwater Secret Cove Resort, 5356 Ole’s Cove Rd., Halfmoon Bay, B.C., 877-296-4593, www.rockwater
secretcoveresort.com; rates: $99–$349. ◊

Willamette Valley,
oregon

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By summer, the constant rain for which Oregon’s Willamette Valley is known has slowed to a trickle. But for winemakers, Memorial Day weekend is a deluge. On that weekend (and again at Thanksgiving), wineries that are typically closed to the public throw open their doors, and visitors can take advantage of not only the sunshine and country roads but also the flowing pinot noir

Station yourself in Portland proper—a mere 45 minutes’ drive away. A Portland icon for 90 years, the Heathman Hotel, with its signature mix of Japanese and Art Deco styles, smacks of luxury without pretension. The rooms are similarly striking, and guests have their choice of bed: Tempur-Pedic, pillow top, or feather. With a weekend of wine guzzling—er, tasting—ahead, comfort at night is a must.

Some of the state’s best wineries are located southwest of Portland off Highway 99W, so as you head out of town in the morning, stop by Pearl for a lemon danish and perhaps half a PB&J to snack on later. In the city of Newburg, Jim Prosser, owner and winemaker of J.K. Carriere, produces only pinot noir, and all of his wines are designed for bottle aging. They taste superb straight out of the white barn he uses as a production facility—just imagine what they’ll taste like in three years.

Farther west, in the newly minted Ribbon Ridge appellation, lies Beaux Frères. The name means brothers-in-law in French, and proprietor Michael Etzel’s co-owns the vineyard with his, who happens to be wine-writer-Goliath Robert Parker. The vineyards have very low yields to produce intense fruit, and the hard-to-find wines are unfiltered—and an investment.

Take a detour through downtown Dundee for lunch at the Dundee Bistro, which traffics in familiar fare with a smart twist, such as duck leg confit salad with endive, pickled onions, and white truffle vinaigrette. And for something different, back in Portland swing by Siam Society. Executive chef Adrienne Inskeep was recently featured in Bon Appétit, and after you’ve tasted her pork, green bean, and vermicelli salad, it’s easy to see why. And of course, this being Portland, the wine list is no slouch either. —scott hocker

Heathman Hotel, 1001 SW Broadway, Portland, 503-241-4100, www.heathmanhotel.com; rates: $199–$1,700. Pearl, 102 NW ninth Ave., 503-827-0910. J.K. Carriere, www.jkcarriere.com. Beaux Freres, www.beauxfreres.com. Dundee Bistro, 100 SW seventh St. #A, Dundee, 503-554-1650, www.dundeebistro.com. Siam Society, 2703 NE Alberta St., portland, 503-922-3675, www.siamsociety.com. ◊

 

Nick's Cove & Cottages,
marshall

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Almost any time of year, West Marin is the unrivaled backyard favorite for Bay Area getaways. And this summer, Pat Kuleto’s long-awaited Tomales Bay project will finally open.

The fishing cottages on the historic site of Nick’s Cove, a former seafood restaurant and roadside motel started by Croatian immigrants in the 1930s, were closed in the 1990s and sold to prolific restaurant designer Kuleto (of Farallon and Boulevard) in 1999. After eight years of planning, the resort will reopen at the end of May, reinvented as a haven of cottages on stilts. Dotting either side of Highway 1, all cottages have their own deck, hot tub, and fireplace, as well as satellite TV and a cozy duvet; a few two-room suites are also available. The six rooms on the east side of the highway are perched on a knoll and have views of the placid bay and the rolling hills. Each has a unique, nautical decor—styles span the 1920s through the 1950s—and is named after someone who has played a part in the enclave’s history. Kuleto envisions the 10-acre property as a getaway for everyone, including “people on car rallies, bikers, windsurfers.”

A full day’s worth of marine activity can be enjoyed on-site, as the resort organizes saltwater fly-fishing outings and instruction on its own boats, and canoeing or windsurfing on the bay.

A partnership with local ranches allows guests to ride horses through the surrounding land.
Of course, it wouldn’t be Pat Kuleto’s place without plenty of attention paid to the 130-seat restaurant. Talk about local bounty: Nick’s Cove has its own immense garden and a chicken coop. Add in local oysters and a wine list starting at 330 bottles, and nothing’s missed. —Sarah Mueller Bossenbroek

Nick’s Cove & cottages, 23240 Hwy. 1, Marshall, 415-663-1033,www.nickscove.com; rates: $175–$1,000. ◊

A u t u m n

Heritage House,
mendocino

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Golden days on the north coast and star-filled evenings without the fog’s chill—there’s nothing more romantic than Mendocino in autumn.

Perched on cliffs that plunge dramatically into the pounding Pacific, Heritage House is the perfect place for an affair—not that we’d advocate that sort of thing. It’s no wonder filmmakers chose this rustic cluster of cottages as the location for the 1978 film Same Time, Next Year, in which Alan Alda and Ellen Burstyn meet one evening and return for a weekend each year to carry on a love affair that spans decades. The hotel continues to draw lovers to its craggy coastline, where they rendezvous, elope, honeymoon, and celebrate anniversaries. And now, under the direction of GHM Hotels and redesigned by Jaya Ibrahim (the name behind the Setai in Miami and the Legian in Bali), this farmhouse-turned-hotel is in the midst of a major revival.

Its quaint character—a reception area always lit with a fire, giving way to a bar and lounge with awe-inspiring views of the Pacific—is still intact, but it now has the amenities for discriminating travelers. So far, nearly half the rooms have been transformed with mini living rooms and decks, wood-burning fireplaces, plasma TVs, slate-tiled bathrooms, feather beds, and iPod docks. All will have broadband access and land lines (until now, none had phones, and there still isn’t cell service).

An intimate spa by Espa (a high-end consultancy that has created spas in the Maldives and Hong Kong) provides Asian-inspired massages and body treatments. GHM has also imported Australian chef Nancy Kinchela, who turns out melt-in-your-mouth specialties like organic lamb shoulder rubbed with rosemary, and Niman Ranch beef tenderloin served with seared foie gras. This season also sees the full bloom of the new garden Kinchela has planted in order to serve guests her own organic produce, some of which (like chamomile, beets, and white thyme) will be used in spa treatments as well.

Special packages for guests include a Champagne Bath Pairing (a grape-based bath product and a glass of specially paired wine—wonderfully strange) and a privately chauffeured tour of the top wineries in the nearby Anderson Valley. Sometimes, though, it’s the littlest details that make the biggest impression. A telephone call from the hotel prior to arrival allows guests to request their own minibar selection as well as the type of sheets and pillows they prefer. —Kristin Young

Heritage House Inn, 5200 N. Hwy. 1, Little River, 800-235-5885, www.heritagehouseinn.com; rates: $299–$650. ◊

 

CordeValle,
San martin

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Fall days mean two things to a Northern California golfer: fewer crowds on the course and less stifling heat. That’s why this all-grown-up resort is the ideal getaway for lovers of the game.

The intimate, seven-year-old CordeValle in San Martin, 70 miles south of San Francisco, boasts a world-class Robert Trent Jones Jr. golf course. Golfers who time it right and tee off early will share the fairways with only a few squirrels and deer.

Nongolfers, too, will love this place for the natural beauty. Nestled in the foothills of the Santa Cruz Mountains, CordeValle gives hikers meadows, hills, and creeks. The resort has a laid-back atmosphere (there are only 45 cozy individual bungalows) and offers indulgent pleasures at its spa, elegant restaurant, and on-site Clos LaChance winery. You could do worse than spending the whole day inside the spectacular main building, a rustic-modern log cabin with a roaring fire, comfy sofas, and a picture-worthy view through the bar of the golf course and surrounding hills. Not to worry if you forget to bring your own reading material: the resort has a deal with many book publishers to offer its guests soon-to-be-published works, like the latest from Isabel Allende.

Unwinding with a book preps you for the spa, 10 steps from the lobby. Take your pick from eight kinds of massages or get rubbed and wrapped with pumpkin, eucalyptus, and crushed grape seeds. Still glowing, head 10 steps past the other side of the lobby to the dining room run by chef Luca Rutigliano, who learned to cook from his mother and grandmother in the Italian countryside.

The capper to all this low-key luxury is a night in one of the resort’s bungalows, featuring
king-size beds with cloudlike comforters, huge whirlpool bathtubs, more views, and yet another fireplace. No one would fault you for spending the entire weekend planted right there. —Nan Wiener
CordeValle, One CordeValle Club Dr., San Martin, 408-695-4500; rates: $495–$3,800. ◊

 

Solage Calistoga,
napa valley

 

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Ah, crush. Most Bay Area residents let less-
seasoned visitors scramble for the hotel rooms
in October. But this harvest season, there’s a new resort that makes the trip worth battling
the masses.

 

Tucked into a former horse pasture at the northernmost tip of Napa Valley, Solage Calistoga, an Auberge resort opening in June, has been envisioned and designed by architect extraordinaire Howard Backen (of Kokkari and Pottery Barn) as a colony of barnlike studios, and features a decor touted as “Napa barn meets SoMa loft.” It’s true: cottages dropped down amongst the old oak trees bring to mind a quaint country retreat, but inside each, you’ll find pebbled shower floors, ecofriendly bedding and furniture, and local art you’ll actually spend some time looking at. The guests playing bocce or pedaling around on the complimentary cruisers, as well as the kids and pets that are welcomed, should contribute to the whimsi­cally agrarian air.

But this is no Old MacDonald scene—the resort’s Mud Bar & Bathhouse spa will be a modern twist on Calistoga mud baths. Clients will have a “mudtender” mix them up a customized batch of mud and essential oils, which is then painted on (no gloppy tubs full of “used” mud here). After you’ve rinsed off the muck, lounge in one of the sunning areas or have a seat in a vibrating sound chair, which gives a feeling of weightlessness.

The jewel in this campus’s crown is the 130-foot geothermally heated pool, one of the biggest in the valley. During the day, the private cabanas will be the spot to lounge with some frozen grapes, Wi-Fi access, and chilled towels to take the edge off the Indian-summer heat. Imagine sipping an Arnold Palmer in the comfort of a chaise longue before wandering in to dinner at the casual bistro, Solbar. The pool and Solbar will be the hub of the resort, and may well serve as the nightlife hub for the entire northern end of the valley. When you are tempted to roam, those cruisers will come in handy for pedaling to nearby wineries like Sterling, Twomey, and Clos Pegase. —S.m.b.

Solage Calistoga, 755 Silverado Trail, Calistoga, 866-942-7442, www.solagecalistoga.com; rates: $325–$875. ◊

 

Paso Robles,
central coast

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While Paso’s vineyards are hardly undiscovered, its magnificent country roads aren’t as clogged during the harvest as those to the north. Visitors to the central coast’s wineries often opt to stay nearer to the ocean, in Cambria or Cayucos, and drive over for the day. But last month’s opening of a new boutique hotel has given Paso’s downtown a shot in the arm, and now travelers are tempted to linger.

The small (just 16 rooms) Hotel Cheval was designed by husband-and-wife owners Robert and Sherry Gilson. The rooms are artfully appointed with paintings by Richard Tullis, as well as luxe linens and Temple Spa bath and body products. Fireplaces in the courtyard garden ward off the chill from the evening fog (good for the grapes, less fun for you).

The rooms are named after famous racehorses, and if you stay on a weekend, you can take a loop downtown in the hotel’s complimentary carriage, drawn by Chester, a Belgian draft horse. Hop out for dinner at Artisan, which has impressed palates since it opened last October. Combinations like grilled Pacific escolar with braised pork belly and caramelized endive embody the best of California cuisine. Don’t miss out on a side of shoestring fries—you’ll get hooked on the housemade ketchup that comes with them.

But consume in moderation, as there’s a lot to pack in the next day. Must-visit wineries in the area include Halter Ranch and Wild Horse, both of which follow sustainable practices (Wild Horse has a resident llama, Floyd), and Tablas Creek, which organically grows Rhône varietals like mourvèdre and roussanne. Best of all, at this time of year you’ll get a prime view of the excitement surrounding harvest. —S.m.b.

Hotel Cheval, 1021 Pine St., Paso Robles, 805-226-9995, www.hotelcheval.com; rates: $225–$425. Artisan, 1401 Park St., 805-237-8084, www.artisanpasorobles.com.

 

Clear Lake,
lake county

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If you grew up in Northern California, you might have spent a few Indian-summer days at Clear Lake, paddling into the cool water when it was 90 degrees out or tangling with your first bass. But Lake County remains obscure for most Bay Area residents. Not for long, though, as the wine industry has a toehold in the region, and the word is slowly getting out.

True, some clutter and garishness mar the south end of the lake, but keep driving. The long, pure stretches of water, the flocks of birds flapping across it, and the gently rising, mostly unblemished mountains explain why the Pomo Indians made this their home. And now there’s a tasteful hotel in Upper Lake that gives travelers much more than a place to lay their heads. The Tallman Hotel, dating back to the 1890s and elegantly refurbished by a couple of San Franciscans in 2005, has everything you’d want in a country inn—and more: cushy bedding, wraparound porches, hand-painted egrets on the walls, and Japanese soaking tubs. The hotel also offers several dream-vacation packages, including a fishing excursion and the Aviator, which takes you flying over vineyards and Mount Konocti in an open-cockpit, World War II Stearman biplane.

Winemakers have discovered this region, but it might be a while before tasters flock here en masse. A few wineries have made a big splash: at the lovely Mediterranean-style lakefront spread Ceago del Lago, owner Jim Fetzer farms according to the phases of the moon and raises chickens that produce the best eggs you’ve tasted. At Brassfield Estate, Jerry Brassfield is busy drilling out caves to draw visitors. Steele Wines is run by Jed Steele, the guy who helped make Kendall Jackson a household name. And Langtry (formerly Guenoc) staked its vines here over a century ago.

The area may not have the panache of its wealthier neighbors to the south, but it’s a treat for travelers who like to poke around and find their own way, perhaps stopping to sip a crisp white in the converted schoolhouse that holds Shannon Ridge’s tasting room or at the redwood-lined Blue Wing Saloon (next door to the Tallman). End of day brings the prospect of dinner at the Saw Shop Bistro, where you can savor rack of lamb, or duck with creamy polenta. In short, a visit to Lake County no longer means roughing it. —P.n.

Tallman Hotel, 9550 Main St., Upper Lake, 866-708-5253, www.tallmanhotel.com; rates: $109–$199. Saw shop Bistro, 3825 Main St., Kelseyville, 707-278-0129, www
.sawshopbistro.com. ◊

W i n t e r

Las Palmas de Punta Mita,
mexico

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Punta Mita, a development about 45 minutes north of Puerto Vallarta, at the top of the Bahía
de Banderas, has lately been awash in fawning press: celebs like Jay-Z and Beyoncé are reported to vacation there. Zip on down in winter, when temperatures are the best, to see what all the fuss is about.

The Four Seasons opened in Punta Mita in 1999, and next thing you know, some were calling it the best Four Seasons property in the world. The St. Regis will follow, opening in late 2007. As luxurious as these hotels are, there’s another option that’s just as indulgent but with a lot more privacy.

Each of the 21 villas for rent at Las Palmas de Punta Mita is equipped with wireless Internet, a terrace with a private pool, and a full kitchen. If your idea of a serious vacation is whipping up a four-course meal, you can arrange to have the cupboards stocked upon your arrival. Then again, if just the notion of chopping an onion while on a tropical getaway brings tears to your eyes, you can request a personal cook and spend your pre-dinner hours getting an in-house massage.

With the ocean mere meters away, a beach
visit, whether for snorkeling, surfing, or good old-fashioned sun-worshiping, is always an option. There’s also a signature Jack Nicklaus golf course with not 18 but 19 holes. The extra hole is on a small island that’s accessible even during high tide—with the help of an amphibious vehicle.

If you really have to be around other people, head over to the Four Seasons’ casual restaurant, Bahía, for simple grilled seafood, such as shrimp with mango and dry chili. Then wander back to the villa and revel in your stately isolation. —S.h.

Las Palmas de Punta Mita, 888-647-0979, www.mitaresidential.com; rates: $900–$1,750. Four Seasons Bahia, www.fourseasons.com/puntamita; rates:
$375–$590. ◊

 

Tenaya Lodge,
yosemite

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The unparalleled grandeur of Yosemite loses some of its sheen during summer, when about 2 million stressed-out and bedraggled tourists transform one of nature’s great wonders into a bumper-to-bumper Winnebago wonderland. That’s why families will love the off-season—from December to February, hotel rates are cheaper, mosquitoes are notably absent, temperatures are often surprisingly mild, and, for the lucky, a dazzling blanket of fresh snow covers the ground.

After bucking convention about when to visit, go ahead and take another leap on where to stay. True, the rustic, old-fashioned Ahwahnee and Wawona hotels are ensconced in age-old Yosemite traditions. But the upscale Tenaya Lodge, located a mere two miles from the park’s southern gate (a 45-minute drive from the valley floor) and sitting on 35 acres at the edge of the Sierra National Forest, is something of a well-kept secret. This 16-year-old resort manages to feel at once like a modern hotel and an old-time lodge, complete with antlers and a grand fireplace in the sprawling, comfortable lobby. Thankfully, new management has spent a considerable sum redecorating the 244 rooms to give them a more individualistic, 21st-century feel.

What’s more, the Tenaya is the most family-friendly place in these parts. Three restaurants make staying on-site easy: the upscale Sierra Restaurant, the laid-back Jackalope’s Bar & Grill, and the Parkside Deli ensure there’s something for even the pickiest eaters.

You may just find yourself passing the day with the wee ones splashing around in the large, warm indoor pool. But you came for nature’s splendor, so get out to the private skating rink, horse-drawn sleigh rides, sledding hills, and snowshoe and cross-country ski trails. Be sure to leave time to roast some s’mores at the outdoor fire pit. Grown-ups will appreciate the indoor and outdoor hot tubs and the spa—the lodge offers a babysitting service, so you can relax and enjoy. And skiers can go to Badger Pass, about an hour away—a modest spot that’s a favorite with parents teaching their beginning skiers. —Leslie Crawford

Tenaya Lodge, 1122 Hwy. 41, Fish Camp, 888-514-2167, www.tenayalodge.com; rates: $129–$479. ◊

 

The Spring or The Brunch Palms,
desert hot springs

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On the surface, Desert Hot Springs, a suburb of Palm Springs, hardly appears to be a vacation spot. But as you drive through the streets strewn with tumbleweeds and pickup trucks, you’ll see stately hedges framing the occasional iron gate—evidence of the town’s famous spas. Pick either one of these two, and the dry heat of the desert, aided by the willing hands of a strong masseuse, will wring the soggy winter chill out of your spirit.

Though a number of natural hot springs attached to spas here give the town its name, none run hotter than the 170-degree aquifer at the Spring. It’s the source for the spa’s three mineral pools—cooled to 86, 101, and 105 degrees—which are the heart of this quiet retreat. Guests spend their day moving blissfully from one to the next. The only good reason to rouse from the water is to make the short walk to the spa, where you can warm yourself in the Finnish fire sauna before taking your place on the table for one of the resort’s signature treatments.

The 10-room resort is hyperminimalist, with a modest strip of rooms bordering the main pool. Most rooms have an expansive, pillow-topped bed and a kitchenette—the lovely staff here will do the shopping if you provide a grocery list.

A short drive away, Two Bunch Palms offers a different kind of spa experience. This 256-acre resort was once a hideout for Al Capone; today it serves as a hideout for movie-industry types who take refuge in the comfortable suites and relax in the mineral-rich mud baths. The spa here offers over 45 treatments, including watsu—like shiatsu in a tub—and a chai soy mud wrap, which sounds like what happens when you spill your Starbucks but is actually a protein-enhanced clay treatment followed by a wrap in warm towels and a rubdown.

After a day of detoxing at the spa, the resort’s Casino restaurant offers a welcome opportunity to retox. Go for a bloody-rare New York sirloin, a bottle of pinot noir, and a hot fudge sundae. This is one resort that understands the importance of balance. —jan newberry

The Spring, 12699 Reposo way, Desert Hot Springs, 760-251-6700, www.the-spring.com; rates: $119–$259. Two Bunch Palms, 67425 two bunch palms trail, 800-472-4334, www.twobunchpalms.com; rates: $107–$916. ◊

 

Cedar House Sport Hotel,
truckee

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After a winter day spent playing in the mountains, half the fun is getting out of the snow. Truckee now gives you a cushy reason to get off the beaten path.

Used to be, most Tahoe lodges had all the charm of a roadside motel: orange shag carpeting, wafer-thin walls, gilt-framed watercolors of mountains and rainbows. The Cedar House Sport Hotel, perched on a bluff a few minutes from Truckee’s historic main drag, is changing all that. A modernist alpine retreat that’s more Le Corbusier than gold-flecked Formica, this year-old boutique hotel brings indoor luxe to an area known for its outdoor wonders.

All wood beams, raw concrete, and recycled steel, the hotel is a study in green design, with a garden on the roof and a heating system that cuts the power bills in half. Good deeds will take you only so far, though: luckily, the place is also comfy as all get-out. Owners Jeff and Patty Baird aimed to create a modern American version of a traditional European ski lodge.

What that translates to is a perpetually roaring fire flanked by leather couches in the lobby and a pint-size bar with three stools—the catbird seats for an après-ski drink. Most afternoons, an ancient, easygoing border collie named Jake sprawls near the fire, overseeing it all. The rooms, meanwhile, are every bit as sleekly cozy as those you’d find in an upscale San Francisco hotel, with cavernous tiled showers and flat-screen TVs.

But this being Tahoe, you won’t want to spend the whole trip in your room. Alpine and Squaw are a 20-minute drive away, and Cedar House sells discounted lift tickets at the front desk. If you’re feeling adventurous (or don’t like waiting
in lift lines), the lodge can arrange guided backcountry skiing on a snowcat as well as snowshoeing and dogsledding excursions in the Sierra.

Once you’re done playing outdoors, hit the spa. Due to Truckee’s stringent planning code, Cedar House’s spa was a long time coming, but it’s finally open, with a 10-person hot tub on the back patio and a cedar sauna. At the end of your day, belly up to the tiny bar for a nightcap. Jake will have gone off to bed, but the fire will still be going strong. —chris smith

Cedar House Sport Hotel, 10918 Brockway Rd., Truckee, 866-582-5655, www.cedarhousesporthotel.com; rates: $140–$300. ◊

 

Downtown,
san diego

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Nightlife just seems sweeter when you’re in a tank top, so a midwinter night out in cosmopolitan downtown San Diego is very sweet indeed.These days, downtown is a far cry from the military ghost town it once was: its population has nearly doubled since 2000, there’s something new opening almost daily, and the Gaslamp Quarter’s clubs and restaurants draw even Angelenos down for the weekend.

Downtown’s grande dame, the 97-year-old U.S. Grant, recently had a $52 million face-lift that has returned the hotel to its glory days. But it’s not all old-school: for its new “sleep with art” program, French artist Yves Clement spent months drip-painting headboards. On the opposite end of the aesthetic spectrum lies the bold new Keating hotel. While car shopping, Keating owner Edward Kaen was so inspired by Ferrari design that he decided to have its design team, Pininfarina, turn his 19th-century building into a hot hotel. The interior stanzas are stocked with Bang & Olufsen electronics, Pininfarina-designed espresso machines, and Frette linens. But you’d better be comfortable with your date: the only thing separating bedroom from bathroom is the change from red to blue color scheme.

If you’re staying at the Keating, you’ll get a taste of the beautiful crowd, but head out and experience San Diego’s new nightlife, which has hit Hollywood heights. Within walking distance from the Grant and the Keating are megaclubs like Stingaree and Confidential, with lofty interiors, VIP tables, and bottle service. Those looking for a more low-key experience will find dozens of vibrant bars in the Gaslamp Quarter and a great rooftop bar at the W.

No worries if you’re not up for wild nights; San Diego’s daytime diversions remain as plentiful as the butterflies at the famous San Diego Zoo, which is always worth another visit. So is Balboa Park—with its15 (15!) museums. Through December, 24 Dead Sea scrolls will be on exhibit at the park’s Natural History Museum, and in January the Cattleya orchids in the Botanical Building are in full bloom. —Natasha Sarkisian

U.S. Grant, 326 broadway, San Diego, 866-837-4270, www.Usgrant.com; rates: $429–$3,500. the Keating, 432 f ST., 619-814-5700, www.thekeating.com; rates: $329–$2,500. ◊

S p r i n g

Tucson,
arizona

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Seeking recovery from a rainy San Francisco March, the body craves eternally sun-drenched days, balmy evenings spent sipping cocktails and nibbling fiery food outside, and wide-open landscape with surreal scenery. For such times, laid-back Tucson, just a short flight away, is an underappreciated answer.

Ringed by five largely unspoiled mountain
ranges flocked with stubby saguaro cacti, the spread-out town draws visitors with its surrounding natural areas, where hiking and riding are only a couple of ways to while away the days outdoors. There is, however, at least one good reason to stay in the middle of town—the Arizona Inn. Surrounded by pink adobe walls, it’s done up with historical southwestern flair on the outside and an eclectic mix of antiques on the inside, and it features an old-fashioned kind of pampering that’s reminiscent of an Edwardian drawing room.

Fireplaces and carved wooden beds outfit the rooms, silver fingerbowls arrive after breakfast, a glass of ice water with lemon magically appears by your chair while you’re swimming, and afternoon tea in the plush, elegant library boasts baby éclairs, petits fours, ladylike crustless sandwiches, and luscious hot chocolate. As you wander the meticulously manicured grounds watching kids play croquet and admiring the flowers, you’ll be hard put to decide whether you’d rather sit by the 1938 pool and listen to the birds singing in the arbor or whack some balls around on the easy-on-the-knees clay tennis courts.

If you haven’t been on a horse in a while—or ever—the evening ride at the Hacienda Del Sol Guest Ranch ($45) is a good way to ease into it, and to take in Tucson’s big-sky sunsets. On calm, well-trained steeds, you and a guide will amble through the brush for a mellow hour and a half.

Janos is widely acknowledged to serve the best southwestern food in the region (chef Janos Wilder is a Bay Area native), but its sidekick, the more casual JBar, is easier on the wallet, with entrées like plantain-crusted chicken, Dos Equis–marinated carne asada, and green-corn tamale pie. Ask for a seat on the patio, where you can see the city lights glimmering in the distance. –p.n.

Arizona Inn, 2200 E. Elm St., Tucson, 800-933-1093, www.arizonainn.com; rates: $169–$799. Hacienda del Sol, 800-728-6514, www.haciendadelsol.com. Janos, 3770 E. Sunrise Dr., 520-615-6100, www.janos.com. ◊

 

Furnace Creek Inn,
death valley

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After a good rainy winter, the Death Valley floor can be awash in the hardy bloom called desert gold; the more rain, the better the mix and profusion. The best time for flower viewing is before the end of April, when temperatures average in the pleasant mid-70s.

Every desert worth its salt pans has an oasis, and Death Valley has a perfect one at the Furnace Creek Inn, complete with leafy date palms and a spring-fed pool, not to mention a frame of colorful hills teeming with the season’s flora. Like the classic lodges in other national parks, the Mission-style resort, opened in 1927, is a throwback to the era when the wealthy experienced nature in simple luxury: huge wood ceiling beams, grand stone fireplaces, adobe and local-stone walls, and broad patios—all now gorgeously restored.

The best of the roomy and comfortable accommodations have views of the palm garden and Panamint Mountains. All have screen doors and balconies or terraces; on a warm, breezy evening you can fall asleep to the rustle of the palms. Come morning, you can play some tennis, jump in the warm and splendid pool, or make an appointment for a massage. In the evening, dine on crispy cactus or farm-raised rattlesnake empanada, followed by venison, steak, or roasted duck and warm chocolate-banana bread pudding. Then take the elevator to the fourth-floor deck to see more stars than you can imagine.

But don’t get too comfy; after all, you came to see those flowers. One of the best landscape views is from the wildly eroded Zabriskie Point, with its carved, golden hills. Even better is Dante’s View, more than 5,000 feet above the valley floor. From here you can see both the highest (Mount Whitney) and lowest (salt-encrusted Badwater, 282 feet below sea level) points in the contiguous United States. On the way back to the inn, swing by Artist’s Palette, where minerals turn the volcanic hills incredible shades of coral, turquoise, lavender, and rusty gold. It’s as colorful as any flower array. —pamela feinsilber

Furnace Creek Inn, Hwy. 190, Death Valley, 760-786-2345, www.furnacecreekresort.com; rates: $265–$405. Easiest way to get there: fly to Las Vegas and rent a car for the 120-mile drive. ◊

 

Kona Village,
Hawaii

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As members of its fiercely loyal fan base will never fail to tell you, Kahuwai Bay’s iconic resort has no phones, Wi-Fi, televisions, or faxes at this time of year (or any time, for that matter). Instead, whales breach just outside of the bay, green sea turtles dip through the waves, and golden plovers skitter along the beach.

The Big Island’s arid Kona coast, with its seemingly endless stretches of lava fields dropping off into the bluest Pacific, is dotted with white-sand beaches and megaresorts that offer every creature comfort under the sun (including zoning out in front of a TV while nursing a sunburn). But at 41-year-old Kona Village—which has struck the balance between laid-back island rusticity, as-you-wish amenities, and sincerely warm service and ambience—guests never miss the boob tube.

Accommodations are in private hales, or huts, some of which are quietly tucked back into a lush grove, while others face the private beach. The hales feature king-size beds, whirlpool bathtubs, and private decks, with continuous upgrades to carpets, bathrooms, and the thatched roofs. New owner Michael Dell (who also owns the Four Seasons Hualalai resort next door) plans further restorations, but nothing that will scare off the loyalists.

Although there’s snorkeling, kayaking, and scuba classes to keep Villagers occupied, anyone adventurous enough to stay in a hut will yearn to get off campus at some point. The resort makes it easy, facilitating car rentals and packing a box lunch. Day trips to Waipio Valley or Volcanoes National Park are within easy reach. And to spice things up for dinner, scoot into Kailua-Kona for an evening at Huggo’s, overlooking the town’s harbor. You might gaze at a cruise ship drifting off into the sunset over your pre-dinner mai tai, move on to fresh-caught pink snapper with ginger beurre blanc as the stars emerge, and then linger over one of the famous mile-high
slices of Kona coffee ice-cream pie while watching the manta rays drawn to the lights shining on the water. –s.m.b.

Kona Village, Queen Kaahumanu Hwy., Kailua-Kona, 800-367-5290, www.konavillage.com; rates: $625–$1,400. Huggo’s, 75-5828 Kahakai Rd., 808-329-1493, www.huggos.com. ◊

 

The Lodge at Pebble Beach,
carmel

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During that brilliant time right on the cusp of spring, when we get those first truly warm days of the year, Carmel embodies California’s good life. Whales spout offshore, plump sea lions laze in the sun, and Pebble Beach Resorts organizes not only the first epic golf days of the season but food-and-wine weekends sure to become yet another signature of the resort.

Once you’ve checked into the iconic, 88-year-old Lodge at Pebble Beach, you’ll find it hard to pull away from the view of the 18th hole. But the staff pries you away gently and carts you off to your room, where a wood-burning fireplace, private deck, oversize whirlpool tub, and king-size bed await (and if you’re lucky, another view of the last link).

In winter and spring of ’08, the resort will host its second annual set of culinary weekends, and newcomers will need to be en pointe to squeeze in among the fans made at 2007’s, which featured food and wines from California, Italy, and France. Guests at the March Grand Dining on the Seine event were treated to panel tastings of Dom Perignon and Domaine Romanée-Conti, as well as two grand dinners with pairings any lover of French wine would swoon over. Ressul Rassallat, chef of the resort’s Club XIX, pulled out all the stops, from the unforgettable amuse-bouche of carrot and orange soup to the Grand Marnier soufflé for dessert. Rapturous dissertations on favorite wines fell to reverent silence whenever
a show-stopping dish landed on the table.

If two days of the best kind of excess under the sun leave you feeling in need of some purification, you can always paddle around the spectacular ocean-front pool or roll yourself over to the spa for its new Lasapa Lelima Purification Treatment. Developed by therapist Cari Herthel, in homage to her Native American heritage (the Central Coast’s Esselen tribe), this 100-minute treatment consists of a white sage scrub, followed by an elderberry and white sage wrap—which Herthel calls a personal sweat lodge—capped off with a massage. If you’re still feeling that you overdid it at dinner, Point Lobos, just seven miles south—and within view from XIX’s dining room—has arguably the most scenic coastal trails in the state. Watching an otter munch on a sea urchin as happily as you devoured last night’s foie gras terrine helps put it all into perspective. —S.M.B.

The Lodge at Pebble Beach, 1700 17-mile dr., Pebble Beach, 831-624-3811, www.pebblebeach.com; food-and-wine weekend rates: $1,725 single occupancy to $3,750 double occupancy. ◊

 

San Ysidro Ranch,
santa barbara county

 

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In the off-season, Santa Barbara County shines. Redolent with the scent of flowers and trees, the very air in this canyon is hypnotic.

San Ysidro Ranch, a secluded collection of 40 cottages and suites, is chiseled into the foothills of the Santa Ynez Mountains, overlooking the Pacific and the rarefied enclave of Montecito. You’re in Oprah’s hood now.

 

The $150 million renovation of the “Ranch,” as it’s dubbed, was unveiled in March. This classic Californian getaway, known for its exclusivity and discretion, has seen it all throughout the ages. Icons like Jackie O. and Vivien Leigh, along with their leading men, have found their way to this sweet valley. Whether you’re as gilded a guest or not, you will appreciate the resort’s upgrades, starting at the entrance, with its gnarled Manza­nilla olive trees, lavender bushes, and paparazzi-foiling gatehouse.

The property is long and deep, reaching into
a rugged canyon with craggy sandstone peaks, ancient oaks, and a whispering creek. Early jasmine blooms frame mailboxes—where the paper will await come dawn—and the sunlight-filled accommodations are stocked with luxe touches: hand-spun robes, Acqua di Parma products, Pratesi linens, and Jessica Foster confections, as well as radiant floor heating, gas fireplaces, and unobtrusive tech necessities for those who can’t unplug.

Pets are welcome, too, and along with their owners can take command of the resort’s 17 miles of hiking trails in the hills. Quietude can also be found back at the ranch: order an in-room spa treatment or meditation session followed by a rain shower and a dip in the hot tub on the patio.

Come nightfall, the crisp mountain air is tinged with the scent of magnolias, orange blossoms, and smoke from the fireplace at the Stonehouse, the property’s intimate fine-dining outpost. Housed in what was once a 19th-century citrus-packing house, the restaurant serves seasonal plates like pan-seared diver scallops with chipotle-spiked sweet potatoes, grilled asparagus, and a blood-orange butter sauce. Duck into the Plow & Angel for a more casual experience—you might rub elbows with “neighbors” coming to grab a quick bite. —amy wong

San Ysidro Ranch, 900 San Ysidro Ln., San Ysidro, 805-565-1700, www.sanysidroranch.com; rates: $450–$3,990. ◊