May 2008
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REGALITO ROSTICERIA
Historia: After years in finance, most recently as the business manager at PC World,
chef and owner Thomas Peña finally took advantage of his culinary
training and opened the Mission’s Regalito Rosticeria in 2006. The food
is inspired by both the Duranguense cooking of his mother and
grandmother, which he ate as a child in San Jose, and his trips to
Mexico to study comida mexicana at its source. The grilled ears of elote on Regalito’s menu are a direct homage to a version of the street-food standby he had during an Easter festividad in the capital city, Guanajuato. Peña swears his rendition— slathered with mayo, dusted with cotija cheese and powdered chile de árbol,
and served with a slice of lime—is no better than what you can find on
any corner in the Mission or Fruitvale. To us, that’s precisely the
point. 3481 18th St., S.F., 415-503-0650
TACUBAYA
Historia:
Much of the inspiration for the food at Thomas Schnetz and Dona
Savitsky’s taquería offshoot of their Temescal restaurant Doña Tomás
comes from the southern Mexican state of Oaxaca. Take the breakfast
staple chilaquiles. In the kitchen, headed by chef Matthew
Ridgeway, a Oaxacan fixture, dried guajillo chilies, are toasted,
hydrated, stripped of their seeds and stems, and blended with chicken
stock, cumin, garlic, and oregano. Housemade tortilla chips are then
sautéed in the deep-flavored salsa, and gratings of Oaxacan cheese are
melted in. The lot is topped with gently scrambled eggs, thin slices of
white onion, cilantro, a sprinkling of queso fresco, and a squiggle of made-from-scratch crème fraîche. Paired with a bowl of piloncillo-sweetened and canela-spiced café de olla, these chilaquiles kick-start the day far better than any bowl of Grape-Nuts ever could. 1788 4th St., Berkeley, 510-525-5160
TAMARINDO
Historia: Though
chef-owner Gloria Dominguez was born in Jalisco, the menu at her
restaurant, Tamarindo, celebrates the cuisine of quite a few Mexican
states. Her tribute to the Pacific-facing region of Sinaloa is a pair
of tacos de camarón. In Sinaloa’s sun-and-surf tourist
destination, Mazatlán, these crispy snacks stuffed with shrimp are
called the Governor’s Tacos. As legend has it, while on a trip from the
state capital, Culiacán, the governor of Sinaloa asked a restaurant to
prepare crispy shrimp tacos with Monterey Jack cheese. Dominguez’s
version includes chopped shrimp sautéed in olive oil and butter with
red chili and garlic. She then puts the shrimp in a tortilla, along
with Monterey Jack, and deep-fries the tacos. A garnish of romaine and
guacamole, plus a drizzle of chipotle aioli, finish the dish. Eat them
with a cerveza in one hand, and just like that, you’re instantly transported to a balmy beach. 468 8th St., Oakland, 510-444-1944
7/2/08—Food reviewer Scott Hocker toasts James Beard winner Niloufer Ichaporia King.
Updates abound at Cafe Majestic, Quince, Terra, Absinthe, and Alfred's Steakhouse.
Whether you grab a sugar-crusted muffin or a chocolate-laden croissant, breakfast on the go too often resembles dessert. These five portable morning meals take a walk on the savory side.
Having already enjoyed what seem like more lives than an alley cat, Enrico’s in Nor