"The excitement here is always high during the holidays," says Sam Mogannam, managing partner of Bi-Rite Market. "The intensity in this neighborhood is exhilarating." Mogannam's hood is 18th Street, in particular the two-block stretch in the Mission that he shares with the nationally renowned restaurant Delfina, Tartine Bakery, and the always-packed Luna Park restaurant just around the corner on Valencia. As the businesses have flourished, so have the friendships among the folks who work there. "We borrow from each other all the time—not just ingredients, but ideas and information, too," says Mogannam. This year marks the start of a new tradition on the block, a holiday party to celebrate what brought them all here in the first place—a shared
passion for great food.

---

Party Food
---------------
Icebreaker, A.J. Gilbert and Gabi Naranjo, Luna Park
---------------
Cracked Dungeness Crab with Meyer Lemon Aioli, Craig Stoll, Delfina
---------------
Trio of Bruschetta on Tartine's Country Loaf
Persimmon-Prosciutto, Liz Prueitt, Tartine Bakery
Cavolo Nero, Craig Stoll, Delfina
Chopped Chicken Liver, Joe Jack, Luna Park
---------------
Crown Roast of Pork with Chanterelles and Porcini Farro, Craig Stoll, Delfina
Truffled Potato and Celery Root Gratin, Sam Mogannam, Bi-Rite Market
Winter Salad with Endive and Pomegranate, Sam Mogannam, Bi-Rite Market
Roasted Butternut Squash with Brussels Sprouts, Joe Jack, Luna Park
---------------
Assorted Holiday Cookies, Liz Prueitt, Tartine Bakery, and Anne Walker, Bi-Rite Market
Chocolate Almond Toffee, Liz Prueitt, Tartine Bakery
Bûche de Noël, Liz Prueitt, Tartine Bakery

---

Icebreaker
Makes 1 cocktail
The new Cîroc vodka distilled from late-harvest grapes provided the
inspiration for this wine-based cocktail.

11/2 ounces of Cîroc
2 ounces ice wine, such as Bonny Doon Vineyards' Muscat Vin de Glacière
Frozen grapes for garnish

Combine the Cîroc and ice wine in a cocktail shaker filled with ice and shake until very cold. Strain into a martini glass and garnish with frozen grapes.


Cracked Dungeness Crab with Meyer Lemon Aioli
Serves 12

For the aioli:
2 egg yolks, at room temperature
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Zest of 3 Meyer lemons
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 cups pure olive oil
Juice of 1/2 Meyer lemon

4 cooked and cracked Dungeness crabs, about 21/4 pounds each

In a large bowl, combine the yolks, garlic, lemon zest, and salt with 1 tablespoon of room-temperature water. With a fine-wire whisk, whisk the mixture until slightly pale and thickened. Begin adding the oil a drop or two at a time, whisking constantly. As each drizzle of oil is incorporated, add another. When the mixture is emulsified, you may stream in the oil slightly faster. When the oil has all been incorporated, whisk in the lemon juice. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 30 minutes. Press the aioli through a fine sieve using a rubber spatula. If needed, add salt and lemon juice to taste.

Serve the cracked crab with the aioli.


Persimmon-Prosciutto Bruschetta
Serves 12

6 slices country loaf or other artisan-style bread, cut in half
12 slices prosciutto
3 ripe Hachiya persimmons, trimmed and
sliced as thin as possible
Freshly ground black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Fresh bay leaves, for garnish, optional

Top each piece of bread with a slice of prosciutto and a slice of persimmon. Season with pepper and drizzle each with olive oil before serving. Garnish with bay leaves, if desired.


Cavolo Nero Bruschetta
Serves 12 as an appetizer
Cavolo nero is often sold as dino kale. Six bunches may look like a lot, but don't be alarmed—it cooks down considerably. This technique may be used with other winter greens, such as broccoli rabe and collard greens.

6 bunches cavolo nero
Extra virgin olive oil
7 or 8 salt-packed anchovies,
rinsed and filleted
7 cloves garlic, 6 chopped fine,
1 cut in half
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/2 teaspoon crushed dried chilies
1 day-old country loaf or other
artisan-style bread
4 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese
Lemon-infused extra virgin olive oil
or 1 lemon, quartered

Trim the stems from the kale and wash the leaves well before cutting them into thin strips. In a large pot of well-salted, rapidly simmering water, cook the kale for about 4 minutes. Drain in a colander and spread the kale on a sheet pan to cool.

In a wide, shallow pot, combine 1/2 cup olive oil, the anchovies, and the chopped garlic. Cook over low heat until the garlic is fragrant and the anchovies dissolve. Don't let the garlic brown. Add the kale and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and the dried chilies.

Add water nearly to cover and bring to a boil. Simmer rapidly until the water is almost completely evaporated and the kale is tender. If the water evaporates before the kale is done, add a bit more to the pot and continue cooking until the leaves are extremely soft with an almost melting quality.

Heat the oven to 400°F.

Cut the bread into slices about 1/2 inch thick, then cut each slice in half diagonally. Brush the slices generously with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and bake until the surface of the bread is crisp and slightly browned and the inside is still chewy, 8 to 10 minutes. Rub the surface of each slice of bread with the halved garlic.

Top each slice with some of the cooked kale. Shave the cheese into thin strips with a vegetable peeler and add a few shavings to the top of each bruschetta.

Drizzle with the lemon-infused olive oil, or squeeze fresh lemon juice over each piece and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil before serving.


Chopped Chicken Liver Bruschetta
Serves 12 as an appetizer

3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup finely diced shallots
11/2 pounds chicken livers, rinsed and cleaned of fat and connective tissue
About 1 tablespoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper, or to taste
1/4 cup Marsala
2 tablespoons heavy cream
Finely chopped chives
1 day-old country loaf or other
artisan-style bread
Extra virgin olive oil

In a sauté pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the livers, salt, and pepper and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally until browned, about
5 minutes.

Carefully pour in the Marsala. If flames erupt, gently shake the pan until they go out. Add the cream and continue to cook until the mixture thickens, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.

When the livers have cooled, chop them coarsely with a knife or transfer to a food processor and pulse to make a coarse-textured spread. Stir in the chives. Refrigerate for several hours.

Heat the oven to 375°F.

Cut the bread into slices about 1/2 inch thick, then cut each slice in half diagonally. Brush the slices generously with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and bake until the surface of the bread is crisp and slightly browned and the inside is still chewy, 8 to 10 minutes. Spread the chopped liver on the toasted bread and serve.


Truffled Potato and Celery Root Gratin
Serves 12

2 cups heavy cream
1 cup chicken stock
2 tablespoons black truffle paste
11/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 large shallots, peeled and thinly sliced (about 3/4 cup)
2 pounds celery root, peeled, halved, and thinly sliced
2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
8 ounces Fontina Val d'Aosta cheese, shredded

Heat the oven to 400°F.

In a saucepan, combine the cream and chicken stock and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Stir in the truffle paste, salt, and pepper and remove from the heat.

In a 15-by-10-by-2-inch baking dish, layer half the shallots with half the celery root, half the potatoes, and half the cream mixture. Repeat with the remaining shallots, celery root, potatoes, and cream mixture. Push down on the ingredients with a spatula, cover tightly with foil, and bake until the vegetables can be easily pierced with the tip of a knife, about 1 hour. Increase the oven temperature to 450°F, remove the foil, and bake until the liquid begins to thicken, 10 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the surface, and continue baking until the cheese has melted and begins to brown, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool for 15 minutes before serving.


Winter Salad with Endive and Pomegranate
Serves 12

3 tablespoons aged sherry vinegar
2 teaspoons honey
1 medium shallot, minced
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
4 ounces Point Reyes Original Blue cheese, crumbled
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
5 heads Belgian endive, leaves separated
5 cups (12 ounces) baby arugula
1 medium pomegranate, peeled and seeded
1/2 cup pecan halves, toasted

In a large bowl, whisk together the vinegar, honey, shallot, mustard, half the cheese, and the salt and pepper. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, whisking all the while, until well combined. Add the remaining cheese. Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed.

Add the endive and arugula and toss gently. Garnish with the pomegranate seeds and pecans and serve.


Roasted Butternut Squash with Brussels Sprouts
Serves 12

3 medium butternut squash, peeled and cut into
1-inch cubes
2 pounds Brussels sprouts, cut into halves
11/2 cups brown sugar
2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 bunch sage leaves
1/2 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons salt
2 teaspoons black pepper

Heat the oven to 400°F.

Mix all ingredients in a bowl, then spread in a large baking dish. Roast uncovered, turning occasionally, until the squash is tender and the Brussels sprouts begin to brown, about 25 minutes.


Hazelnut Linzer Cookies
Makes about 24 cookies

1/2 cup hazelnuts, toasted and skinned
1/2 cup sugar, divided into two 1/4-cup increments
2 sticks unsalted butter
2 egg yolks
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon lemon zest
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup seedless raspberry jam
Confectioners' sugar, for sprinkling

In a food processor, process the hazelnuts and 1/4 cup of the sugar until finely ground.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and the remaining sugar until light and fluffy, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl from time to time. Add the egg yolks and mix well. Add the hazelnut and sugar mixture, flour, salt, lemon zest, cinnamon, and vanilla extract. Mix until the dough just comes together. Scrape it out onto a piece of plastic wrap, flatten the dough into a disk, wrap it, and chill for 2 to 3 hours.

Heat the oven to 350°F.

On a lightly floured board, roll half the dough 1/8 inch thick and cut with a 2-inch-square cookie cutter. Put the cookies on an ungreased cookie sheet (or one lined with a Silpat mat), spacing them 1 inch apart, until the sheet is full. Repeat with the remaining dough, but cut out the centers with a 1-inch-square cookie cutter. Bake for approximately 10 to 14 minutes, until golden brown, and allow to cool completely.

Spread approximately 1/2 teaspoon jam on each whole cookie.

Sprinkle confectioners' sugar on the cut-out cookies and place on top of the whole cookies.


Spicy Lace Cookies
Makes about 46 cookies

1 stick plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
3/4 cup sugar
1/3 cup corn syrup
2/3 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
3/4 teaspoon powdered ginger
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
Zest of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

With an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and set at medium speed, combine the butter, sugar, and corn syrup. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well, scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, about 2 hours.

Heat the oven to 350°F and set the racks near the center.

Using a tablespoon, scoop out small balls of dough and set them about 4 inches apart on parchment-lined baking sheets. Bake until the cookies are golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer the baking sheets to a cooling rack, and while the cookies are still warm, wrap them around the handle of a wooden spoon to form a tube. Let cool completely.

Tip: As soon as the cookies are cool, transfer them to an airtight container. They go limp in just a few hours when left out. Anne sometimes uses the little packages of desiccant that come with new shoes; adding one to the container will help the cookies stay crisp.


Pistachio Rochers
Makes about 30 cookies

1 cup (4 ounces) shelled unsalted
pistachios, toasted
2 egg whites
1/3 teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
1 cup confectioners' sugar, sifted

Heat the oven to 275°F.

In a food processor, pulse the pistachios to a coarse grind.

In a large bowl, combine the egg whites, vanilla extract, and salt. Set the bowl in a pot of simmering water and whisk the mixture until hot to the touch. Remove from the heat and gradually beat in the confectioners' sugar until stiff, glossy peaks form. Fold in the pistachios and immediately transfer the mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a number 6 or number 7 plain tip, or simply drop spoonfuls of the batter onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. If using the pastry bag, pipe out cookies about 11/4 inches across at the base and about 2 inches high in the shape of a candy kiss. Leave 1/2 inch of space between the cookies.

Bake, leaving the oven door slightly ajar, until the cookies are starting to puff but are still moist inside, about 15 minutes. If the tops start to brown too much, put a sheet of parchment paper or foil over them. Transfer to a rack and let cool.


Chocolate Spice Cookies
Makes about 60 cookies

31/2 cups all-purpose flour
6 tablespoons Dutch-processed cocoa
2 teaspoons powdered ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 sticks unsalted butter
1 cup sugar
1 egg
1/2 cup molasses

For the icing:
3 egg whites
4 cups sifted confectioners' sugar
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar or
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice

Combine the flour, cocoa, ginger, cloves, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt and set aside. With an electric mixer set at medium speed, beat the butter until smooth. Add the sugar and continue beating until fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add the egg and beat until well combined. With the mixer running, pour in the molasses and beat until incorporated. Reduce the speed to low and add the dry ingredients, mixing just until combined.

Divide the dough in half, shape into flat squares, and cover in plastic wrap. Refrigerate until cool but pliable, about 1 hour.

Heat the oven to 350°F.

On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough 1/8 inch thick, and stamp out shapes with cookie cutters.

Transfer the cookies to a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake until the dough is no longer shiny, 8 to 10 minutes. Cool on a rack.

To make the icing: Combine the egg whites, confectioners' sugar, and cream of tartar or lemon juice and beat with an electric mixer on high speed until smooth and glossy. Transfer the icing to a parchment-paper decorating cone and decorate the cookies. Alternately, transfer the icing to a small, heavy-duty zip-top bag, seal it, and gather the icing into one corner. Snip off a small piece of the tip and squeeze to decorate the cookies.


Chocolate Almond Toffee
Makes about 21/2 pounds toffee

3 cups (12 ounces) sliced almonds,
lightly toasted
21/4 cups sugar
6 tablespoons water
2 sticks unsalted butter
2 teaspoons molasses
1/2 tablespoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
10 ounces dark chocolate, coarselychopped

Lightly crush the almonds with a rolling pin and spread half of them evenly on a 13-by-18-inch baking sheet with sides that is lined with parchment paper. Reserve the remaining almonds.

In a saucepan, combine the sugar, water, butter, and molasses. Cook over medium heat until the mixture registers 290°F on a candy thermometer. Remove from the heat and quickly stir in the vanilla extract and baking soda.

Pour the mixture evenly over the almonds in the pan, spreading it with a spatula if necessary. Work quickly, as the toffee will begin to set soon after the baking soda is added. Let the mixture cool for a minute before sprinkling the chocolate over the surface. As the chocolate begins to melt, spread it evenly over the toffee and sprinkle the remaining almonds on top. Let cool completely before breaking the toffee into bite-sized portions.

Transfer the toffee to an airtight container and store in a cool, dry place for up to two weeks.

Tip: The hot sugar and butter mixture can cause severe burns. Work quickly but carefully and have a bowl of ice water nearby in case of an accident.


Party Wines

Doug Uyeno, wine consultant to Luna Park, and winemaker Mick Unti brought some choice bottles to the bash.

For the appetizers, they chose Mick's Unti Vineyards Grenache Rosé 2002 ($12) because the dry Provençal-style wine works so well with so many different foods. "Folks just gravitate towards it," says Doug. "Rosés are in with wine people."

Doug and Mick selected two wines to go with the pork roast. The Unti vineyards Syrah 2001 ($26), "for the European palate," says Doug, "has a smoky blackberry quality that goes well with the meat." The big splurge of the evening was the Hollywood and Vine "2480" ($78), a blockbuster California Cabernet that's rich and velvety and screams celebration.

When dessert showed up, Doug pulled out the vin de pays-style Westerly Après ($24), a late-harvest Viognier with dried apricot flavors that complements a plate of cookies and Liz's spectacular bûche de Noël.