NEW Redwood City Turkish-born Celal Alpay is so passionate about his native cuisine that cynics might suspect he's on the take from Turkey's national board of tourism. But you'll admit he comes by bragging rights honestly when you taste his restaurant's succulent lamb chops (marinated 48 hours in herbs and garlic) or sarma beyti kebab (spicy ground beef that's flame-broiled, wrapped in grilled lavash bread, and cut into hot, aram-like sandwiches before it's ladled with earthy red-pepper sauce and pungent garlic yogurt). Mild eggplant and pasta dishes can't compete. But freshly wrapped dolmas hold a sensuously crunchy stuffing of rice and toasted pine nuts scented with cinnamon and mint. A fascinating selection of appetizers is brought tableside for easy choosing; be sure to sample the cigarette-shaped sigara boregi (hot, crunchy pastry filled with a creamy Feta-potato mix). Skip the sticky-sweet desserts.

2399 Broadway (at Winslow St.), (650) 368-5500. $. RW ***