When Fritz Clay was a teenager and started teasing his curls into an Afro, he realized that the 'do is destiny: "If the crown is off, you feel everyone is frowning on you. Wear it well, and you have all of your followers." Clay counts celebs among his devotees, but when asked to name names, he demurs: "I never coif and tell." Clay's disciples now flock to Hair Play, where his inclusive approach finds a chic and loyal clientele. On the eve of the launch of his first hair product, Set styling lotion, he talked about San Francisco style and how, this season, bigger is better. Hair Play 1599 Dolores St., S.F., 415-550-1656; 211 Church St., Ste. A, S.F., 415-863-0703.

Are we finally over dead-straight hair?
Yes. I'm really about glamorous, classic, beautiful Hollywood hair. Big waves; soft, curly locks; and color: it's a look we're seeing from funky Vivienne Westwood right up to high-end couture.

Got someone in mind?
Nicole Kidman. She sets the trend for restructuring curly hair. Everyone knows her for lush curls, but she's naturally more bushy and frizzy. It's about the in-between look with more waves, more volume.

Is blond still better?
Think lowlights this season. In fact, I don't even have to suggest them anymore because clients are savvy enough to request them.

Going dark should be such a big deal.
A lot of blonds feel they should stay that way, so when they do go dark, it's huge. And if they do it, they want to make sure they don't fry their hair in the process. Some hair can take a beating and still come back for more. But some can't take it and says "I'm outta here." Just like people.

Is San Francisco a good hair town or a bad hair town?
It has its districts. Marina, Pacific Heights, and San Rafael, 75 percent are blondes or variations of wannabe blondes. They have shoulder-lenth hair or longer, understand conditioning, and have an overall very similar look. The other extreme: the Mission. A lot of texture, individuality, and friends doing friends' hair. At times I've seen something there that's hot and I've thought it comes from London or New York, but it turns out they've done it themselves. And I've taken notes.

What are your clients most afraid of?
Turning gray.

Truth or myth: pluck a gray hair and three grow in its place.
Myth. If that were the case, people with superfine hair would just pluck their whole heads to get three times as much back.