San Francisco has style from toe to chin, but many of us still haven’t quite figured out the whole makeup thing. Sure, certain people here brave the “I slept in my eyeliner” punk look, and many others eschew makeup altogether, but the artful look in between is often underrepresented. Lucky for us, a contingent of local makeup artists is bringing home sophisticated looks from runways and rock concerts. These five pros will help you focus on a feature to play up—while making sure your whole face looks great—whether you’re just heading to the office or going all out for a holiday bash. This season, they’re pitching bright lips (red or purple), well-executed black eyeliner, and individually placed fake lashes (full strips are out, but the underlash is back). Take their advice and walk away with a look that brings out your inner supermodel, the products you’ll need to get there, and the techniques to do it yourself.
1
THE SUPERSTAR
The closest thing to a Kevyn Aucoin San Francisco has ever seen, Alameda resident Victor Cembellin has come a long way since he got his start 11 years ago at a Nordstrom MAC counter in Walnut Creek. Cembellin now counts Missy Elliott, Paris Hilton, and Pamela Anderson as clients. He’s also a regular on the fashion show circuit, working for labels like Baby Phat, Vera Wang, and Alexander McQueen. Old-school Hollywood glamour is back, he says, and his favorite way to get the look is to put a solid, sweeping line above the lash—he loves MAC’s Blacktrack Fluidline, a crease- and smudge-proof waterproof gel liner that can make even the biggest klutz capable of applying an unwavering line. Using a compact mirror, work in segments and apply Fluidline with an angled brush. Start with a thin line and build it thicker if desired. If you’re in a hurry and make a mistake, smudge out the liner for a very now, smoky look. Cembellin occasionally does seminars at the San Francisco outposts of Macy’s, Nordstrom, and the MAC stores, among others.
2
ROCK STAR POWER
Thanks to decades of experience and tours with Janet Jackson and Cher, Yvette Beebe can do a face in 15 minutes or less. Much to her loyal clientele’s relief, she is now back in her Marina studio after months touring Europe with Pink. Beebe provides the stars with vibrant, sweat-resistant stage makeup, but don’t worry about getting caked: her mantra really is “less is more.” In fact, she works with teenage girls to help them learn how to use makeup to enhance their inner beauty, not just cover up outer imperfections. She also has an extensive line of her own makeup, YB Uglee Cosmetics, with product names like YB Clumpy (mascara), YB Lippy (lip gloss), and YB Boring—her line of eye shadow dusts, which Beebe swears are best applied with a finger for a high-impact look. 3108 Fillmore St., S.F., 415-776-5874. Makeup application, $75; Makeup lesson, $150 for 90 minutes, includes free brow shaping instruction.
3
READY FOR YOUR CLOSE-UP
High above the hustle and bustle of Union Square, ensconced in the glass box of the Alex Chases Salon, Paige Boyer gets the faces (and spirits) of San Francisco’s starlets ready for all the city’s big openings and parties. The secret of her success is a honeysuckle-sweet personality that makes every client—A-list or not—feel both special and beautiful. Never rushed, Boyer spends a full hour on each makeup application. Her signature is feathery lashes, thanks to her rosewater mascara and skilled hand. Her technique is to go heavy on the lashes’ base and light on their tips, and she insists you replace your mascara as soon as you see clumps on the brush, about every eight weeks. She also coaches you on how to photograph best, including what to do before you step out of your car and into the limelight (powder your T-zone and reapply gloss) and how to put the best angles of your face forward for the shutterbugs. 166 Geary St., S.F., 415-397-5505. Makeup application, $95; Makeup lesson, $200.
4
THE HOLISTIC APPROACH
At Herringbone, Shawn Burke lures in Berkeleyites who have sworn off makeup with rare, top-end skincare products like Skyn Iceland, Komenuka Bijin, and Dr. Jessica Wu. After clients receive a healing facial from Erin Wong, Burke then holds their hand as they advance from a blush-and-lip-color in one to a mascara to, gasp, even a bright red lipstick. With a faux fireplace, hand-finished wooden walls, and an apothecary chest that belonged to her late grandfather, her shop has a cozy, hunting lodge feel. Burke loves the Mandy Palette, created by Julie Hewett for Mandy Moore after she did her makeup during the filming of Because I Said So. It includes two of her signature “cheekies”—first apply to the lips, and then rub the color left on your finger upward from the apple of your cheek. The two “shimmies” in the palette are great highlighters. To get your facial bones to pop when light hits your face, gently blend the golden color into your cheekbones, the bridge of your nose, and your lip’s “Cupid bow.” 1527 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley, 510-649-9442. Deal: if you spend $75, Burke will go through your makeup bag and help you decide what to throw out and what to keep. Makeup application, $125.
5
THE SOCIALITES’ CHOICE
Wallett Luburich gives such detailed and helpful makeup lessons it’s a wonder her clients even need her for special events. She keeps her A-list regulars, including Vanessa Getty and Alexis Swanson, addicted by always trying a different look. Wallett, the self-proclaimed Queen of the Lip, can’t say enough about the power in a tube of lipstick: “It’s like a psychology tool; $20 later you can have a smile on your face even if you are having the worst day.” Wallett adores lip pencils, but only if they match the lipstick to give lips lasting depth and color. She knows how to use a pencil so you don’t look like a clown. The secret: pretend like you’re sketching—use only short little strokes—and make sure the gloss and lipstick match well. Not surprisingly, when the lip queen wanted to launch her own line of products, she decided to stick to coordinating lipsticks, glosses, and liners. They now have a cult following around town. A tip to all the San Francisco women who like to go au naturel: “If you’re doing a nude lip, make sure you put color on your cheeks. Otherwise you’ll look washed out,” she says. 415-218-8786, www.wallett.com. Makeup application, $200; Makeup lesson, $250.
Links:
[1] http://www.wallett.com