Mai tai one on

The Polynesian craze that Victor Bergeron started in 1932 with Oakland’s Hinky Dink’s had nearly fizzled out by century’s end, but it is experiencing a rebirth. In 2003, Mike and Emmanuel Thanos opened Conga Lounge in a cramped second-floor Rockridge walk-up, and the butane fire was stoked. Since then, a slew of island-themed bars has opened around the Bay, including the Thanos brothers’ much-anticipated Forbidden Island in Alameda, which had tiki fiends and the Bay’s own islanders lined up down the block on its opening night in April. The lounge has the requisite vintage touches like carved statues and waterfalls (“I so need those for my house”), but avoids the ultra-tack that puts Joe No-Tiki ill at ease. Co-owner Martin Cate, formerly of Trader Vic’s, serves 38 cocktails—both his own mixes and classics from the annals of mai tai history. The 52 bottles of rum on the wall keep crowds toasted enough to believe they actually are stranded on a tropical isle.

Forbidden Island
7:22 p.m.

THE SCENE
Netting, booths with thatched roofs, pufferfish lanterns, and black velvet paintings of topless Polynesian beauties.

THE SAUCE
Fruity alcohol bombs in hurricane glasses, oversize goblets, and in a stroke of genius, blowfish-shaped bowls.

EAVESDROPPING
It’s the only place outside the Castro where you’ll hear “I can make them flaming for you!”

THE LOOK
Tiki queens in luau shirts, rockabilly chicks with hibiscus-patterned skirts, and dressed-down locals sporting puka shell necklaces.

OH DEAR
An awkward blonde doing a literal interpretation of Mel & Tim’s “Backfield in Motion.”

THE SOUND TRACK
A 100-CD jukebox plays everything from ’60s pop and R&B legends The Coasters to Les Baxter, exotica pioneer.

1304 Lincoln Ave., Alameda, 510-749-0332.?

Elsewhere

Tikiphiles cried blasphemy when Sneaky Tiki premiered its sleek modernist take on the genre, but blotto weekend warriors can’t get enough. 1582 Folsom St., S.F., 415-701-8454.

Matching-windbreaker-clad couples suck in flavored air from an oxygen bar while hippie holdovers suck down zombies at the 19 Broadway Tiki Bar Bamboo Lounge. 19 Broadway, Fairfax, 415-459-0293.

The It-names from the tiki cybercommunity hold court with city socialites–and Willie Brown–at Trader Vic’s. 555 Golden Gate Ave., S.F., 415-775-6300.?