February 2008

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Ubuntu

1140 Main Street, Napa Valley, CA 94559
(707) 251.5656

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What spares Ubuntu from self-parody are the same factors that make it a swell place to eat. As a vegetable restaurant, it proves that meatless meals can be both bountiful and beautiful, and that forgoing fauna needn’t be an exercise in pious self-denial. There are no holy gestures of asceticism, but also no excuses or apologies. Dishes aren’t asked to pass for things they aren’t: no seitan “burgers,” no couscous “chicken fingers.” This is a restaurant built on produce, glorious produce (OK, plus some eggs and a fair amount of cheese), the offshoots of Eden, plucked and prepared for the worthy fallen offspring of original sin.
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