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Tamarindo
468 Eighth St. (at Broadway), Oakland, CA
(510) 444.1944
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Tamarindo is an antojeria, and, as such, it specializes in antojitos, or “little whims,” some of which we know as tacos, tostadas, and tamales. And though they may be small, the plates here compensate in character for what they lack in size. A trio of tostaditas is gone in a few swallows, but the palate tingles with the slow, smoldering heat of the shredded chipotle chicken that once nested on the crisp tortillas. Owner Gloria Dominguez makes almost everything by hand, from the salsas to the cilantro oil. Of all the sweet impressions Tamarindo leaves, the strongest is that of a restaurant run with great care and a warmth of service generated by a personal investment in something bigger than a tip. (J.S.)
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