Mamacita
2317 Chestnut St. (at Scott St.), San Francisco, CA
(415) 346.8494
$$ 

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Squeezed between a gaggle of blond highlights and a pod of blazers and striped shirts, one can’t help but wonder where all these Marina-ites ate before Mamacita opened. The food here, unfortunately, doesn’t appear to be the real draw—at least on weekend nights, when you’ll likely get a phone number faster than a table. Come back during the week when it’s a bit quieter, and you can focus on chef Sam Josi’s invigorating Mexican fare. Well-executed dishes—like the lime-cured mahi mahi seviche, housemade tortillas topped with tender Meyer Natural Angus skirt steak, and the signature slow-cooked chicken enchiladas—are meant for sharing and are served by a knowledgeable, refreshingly down-to-earth staff who weave their way, masterfully, through the crowds. (R.L.)