The 11-course tasting menu at Coi consumes more than three hours, but not a moment is ill-spent. Working closer to the realm of art than craft, Daniel Patterson executes high-minded concepts that never show the slightest sign of strain. He steams black cod in housemade butter, spikes the sweet fillet with sorrel and wild anise flowers, and lays it on a streak of beet-and-grape emulsion that brightens the white plate like a master’s brushstroke. He toys with the trope of tomato soup and a sandwich: in this case, by filling a puff pastry with fromage blanc and serving it with a tomato parfait, suspended in tart tomato water, that could pass for a mini MoMA installation. The avant-garde presentations—such as a pink- grapefruit salad with sorbet and a layer of mousse on top, with a dot of fragrant oil meant to be rubbed on your wrist—complement the small, modernist dining room, which features spot-on service and MRIs of produce hanging on the walls. A more laid-back lounge offers the same tasting menu, along with simple roasts, salads, and a sterling udon soup. But there’s no substitute for the full monty, a virtuoso performance that plays out at the pace of an art-house film. (J.S.)