While its sister restaurant in St. Helena, Terra, traffics in refined rusticity, Ame offers a more urban experience. The civilized design, which includes floor-to-ceiling draperies, mirrors the kitchen’s sophisticated cooking. Much of the menu has Japanese inflections: Chawan mushi, a savory egg custard, buoys Georgia white shrimp and shiitakes. The pairing is as beautiful as it is delicious. And when the kitchen leans toward Europe and beyond, its footing remains sure. Overexposed burrata is revitalized when paired with cherry tomatoes and shaved summer squash. Lebanon receives a nod in the lamb trio, featuring a loin chop, slivers of lamb heart, and kibbe (a torpedo of ground lamb) over cucumber-yogurt salad. The service is polished, and the sommeliers are as proficient with the wine list as they are at intuiting their guests’ preferences. (S.H.)