Although the fusion in each dish is exceptionally fluid, the overall progression of a meal can be jarring. Opening an evening with “Lissa’s staff meal” of cuttlefish noodles—the cuttlefish stripped into ribbons and tossed with quail egg, sea urchin, daikon, and soy sauce—then moving onto burrata (mozzarella’s creamier cousin) with braised artichokes is like going to bed in Tokyo and waking up just north of Tuscany when, really, you had no reason to leave. The cuisine of Western Europe is all well and good, especially when it gives rise to a simple radicchio salad, in a dressing justly governed by parmesan and lemon. Or a grilled pork chop in a Dijon-wine reduction that’s twice as thick as the average chop but twice as tender, too. Still, the stars of Ame’s constellation of dishes are those visible from the Pacific Rim. They include an upscale rendition of chawan mushi, a homey egg custard that is often served to babies in Japan. Sone’s adaptation—with lobster meat and sea urchin in suspended animation in the silken custard—is only for children who have been very good.