In a delicious case of culinary imperialism, the owners of the Peninsula’s lauded upscale Indian restaurant Amber India have built a local dining empire. With its fourth venture, the group has now conquered San Francisco. Its grand new space, awash in rust and gold, is split into three levels, and the vast menu covers territory both familiar and foreign. A mixed grill of shrimp, lamb kebabs, and chicken exemplifies the potential of tandoori cooking. Braised okra is vibrant with fennel seeds and tart green mango. Though nontraditional in execution, seared scallops with a dome of burnt-garlic pulao smack of authentic flavor. A caveat: Dinner at Amber India is far from economical. For a comparative bargain, consider lunch, when the restaurant conquers once again by serving the unthinkable—a first-class buffet. 25 Yerba Buena Ln. (bet. Market and Mission Sts.), S.F., 415-777-0500 $$$–$$$$ RW ★★1/2
By Scott Hocker