You can't miss Alioto's at Fisherman's Wharf?its neon sign is a San Francisco landmark. Equally famous is the Alioto family, whose name is synonymous with city politics as well as the popular restaurant, which began in 1925 as a fish stall. Take the elevator up to the bustling dining room, where tiered seating offers expansive views of the Wharf and its fabled fishing fleet. Whether you're relaxing at a table or in one of the plush upholstered booths, you'll be well taken care of by the friendly wait staff. The menu, as you'd expect, is predominantly seafood (many selections have an icon marking them as one of Alioto's Sicilian specialties). For starters, try the deep-fried calamari, one of the best renditions in the city, or the seafood sausage, a mix of prawns, rock shrimp, and scallops flavored with tomatoes and basil. Salads include traditional Wharf specialties like shrimp and crab Louies, but also a delicious artichoke and arugula salad. For entrées, try the sand dabs, a local favorite, or petrale dore, dishes simply prepared with butter and lemon. Pasta and risotto are combined with seafood, but can be ordered without for vegetarians. Landlubbers won't go hungry either: there's a juicy New York steak and several veal dishes. For dessert, don't miss the cannoli, a Sicilian pastry tube filled with sweetened ricotta and dusted with powdered sugar. The wine list, overseen by master sommelier Nunzio Alioto, features a good selection of both California and Italian choices. As you leave, be sure to take note of the black-and-white photographs that line the hallways, a tribute to the three generations of Aliotos who have made dining at the Wharf a must-do for San Francisco visitors.

8 Fisherman's Wharf (at the foot of Taylor St.) | (415) 673-0183 | Daily: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. | Credit cards: AE, DIS, JCB, MC, VISA | Reservations advised | Full bar | Two-hour validated parking | Banquet facilities | Wheelchair access | www.aliotos.com